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Old 07-16-2003, 02:42 PM   #1
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installing a dual crown fork: IMPORTANT I NEED YOR HELP

hey guys, i am installing a dual crown fork (sherman slider) and i was wondering if any special tools were required? the other thing i was wondering was how do i get the old fork off the bike, it is a dj2. thanks.

Last edited by bbike; 07-19-2003 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 07-16-2003, 04:47 PM   #2
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To get the old fork off: Remove the preload washer(topcap) and stem, remove the top race from the headset, slide for out the bottom(you may need to tap it with a hammer to free it up). Remove the lower race from the old fork by tapping it free of the steer tube. Replace the lower race on the new steer tube and tap it down until it is seated all the way down. Reinstall fork into headtube, and install upper crown, stem and preload washer(You will need to install a new star nut in the new fork) and tighten everything down. Now ride.
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Old 07-16-2003, 05:20 PM   #3
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Hi im doing the same thing and was wondering when you said replace the lower race on the new steerer tube, if you mean to buy a new one or use the one on the old fork, this might be a dumb question but I don't feel like messing up on my new shiver.
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Old 07-16-2003, 05:42 PM   #4
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reuse the old one each race is made for a different type of headset it would be hard to buy a new race
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:03 PM   #5
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I found that out a hardway tried switching forks in the middle of a ride.. and um got all the way till the race didnt fit ! GRRR
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:21 PM   #6
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^^^why in the middle of a ride^^^
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:28 PM   #7
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why woul;dn't u just wait till u got home
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Old 07-16-2003, 08:52 PM   #8
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1) Remove preload cap on top of the stem

2) Remove stem

3) Lift the front of the bike off the ground a couple inches and hit the top of the steer tube with a mallet. (you do this because there is a rubber compression ring that gets wedged in there)

4) Carefully take all the pieces of the headset off the top. This includes the top "race" and the bearings. If the bearings aren't cartridge bearings then be sure to remember which way they go, because it can be confusing.

5) Continue to slide the fork out of the frame, the bottom bearing rings/cartridge will probably fall out.

6) Now that you have the fork free of the frame, you have to remove the bottom race. This metal ring is pressed onto the base of the steer tube. Take a look at how it's on there, and try to remember. There should be a notch in the fork crown on the front and back where you can put a screwdriver. Take a flathead and try to tap the race off. You need to hit it quite hard, and you must alternate sides to move it off as evenly as possible. It has to go about a centimeter before it falls off.

7) You now need to put the race onto your new fork. DO NOT hit the top of the race with any metal objects, because the top is where the bearings sit. Take a block of wood to the race, and hit the wood with a hammer. It will be very hard to make it slide on evenly at first, so don't worry too much. Be sure to tap it evenly all around once you get it going. You have to hit it very hard near the end in order to get it perfectly on there. There should be no gaps at all.

put the bottom bearings back in and slide the fork onto the frame

9) put the top race and bearings in

10) put the top crown on

11) put the stem on

12) tighten down the stem preload cap pretty hard, until it feels tight.

13) tighten the top crown pinch bolts

14) tighten the stem pinch bolts
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Old 07-16-2003, 08:53 PM   #9
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Oh yeah, if you think you're gonna mess something up bring it to a shop.
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Old 07-16-2003, 09:09 PM   #10
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rather than hammering the bottom race on to the new fork, cant u just leave it settled (straight) and just tighten the headset cap? thats how the "professional" bottom race installer works too.

itd be much easier and scratch proof

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Old 07-16-2003, 09:16 PM   #11
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i used a peice of plastic pvc pipe that is just larger than my steerer to pound the race on evenly
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Old 07-16-2003, 09:35 PM   #12
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before you start tapping away on ur race, check to see of there's a slot on the race, if so, just use a flathead screw drive to expend the slot and slide the race out, some FSA heasets have tjose kind of race.
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Old 07-16-2003, 10:13 PM   #13
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Maybe, but I think you would strip your star nut/bolt.

Quote:
Originally posted by M13
rather than hammering the bottom race on to the new fork, cant u just leave it settled (straight) and just tighten the headset cap? thats how the "professional" bottom race installer works too.

itd be much easier and scratch proof

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Old 07-17-2003, 09:26 AM   #14
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The best idea is to find a piece of pipe thats larger than the steerer tube but doesn't rest on the bearing contact area of the race.

Some companies do sell replacement races, but getting hold of them could be tricky.

Another alternative to hammering the steerer tube to get it loose is...

1. loosen everything you can (stem, top cap)
2. Move the stem up 1 or 2mm and reclamp it.
3. Hold the front brake and rock the bike gently forwards and backwards. Pretty soon the headset will come loose.

This often works better than hammering the steerer tube and, unless you're really harsh on the rocking, causes less potential damage. This method works brilliantly for headsets which seem to be stuck.
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Old 07-17-2003, 03:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by ronald55555
before you start tapping away on ur race, check to see of there's a slot on the race, if so, just use a flathead screw drive to expend the slot and slide the race out, some FSA heasets have tjose kind of race.
yeh thats wot i did. went on fine. i didnt have to tap it down?? well i think i remember tapping it a tiny bit but only lightly with a screwdriver in the little gap of the race.
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