Quick tech question on rear hub/quick release

[pardus]

Ok, a few times riding on my new bike, my rear wheel has popped out of the dropouts. after the first time, tightened it a bit more, after the second tightened even more. How tight should it be? When I tighten my quick release, not even that hard, my wheel wont spin freely. So I am assuming something needs to get adjusted with my hub? any advice.

HUB:Novatec D362 (R) 4 Row Sealed Bearing

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/en...how.php?sid=88

[Kossinnd]

hmm. you are tightening your QR correctly right? It doesn't have to be super tight, but it sure as heck should not let your wheel fall off! make sure when you are tightening it you have the tab open (it should say open + be facing you) turn the knob or lever with your fingers, then push down the QR tab so it should say closed facing you. It could be something with your hub, I am not sure about it though.

[Kossinnd]

Hundreds of people suffer gruesome injuries every year as a result of improper use of front wheel quick releases, but if you understand their operation, they're quite safe and secure.

Twist or Flip?
The quick release handle can move two ways: it can twist around like a wing nut, or it can flip 180 degrees outward and back, like a hinge.
The twisting motion adjusts the operating range of the quick release. You may have to hold onto the cone-shaped nut at the other end of the axle. You can't get it tight enough by turning it.

The hinge-like flipping motion is the locking motion. In the "open" position, the quick release handle curves away from the bike. In the "locked" position, it curves toward the bike. Never, ever ride with the lever in the open position!

If the quick release is too loose, this flipping motion will be too easy, but it will not hold the wheel safely--flip it back, turn it clockwise some more, then try again.

If it is too hard to flip, and you cannot get it to flip far enough to lie flat, loosen the adjustment by turning the handle counterclockwise.

It should take a good firm push to get the handle to lie flat.

It is a good idea to set it so that the handle points toward the rear when it is closed. This reduces the chance of getting it snagged on something. Turn the handle and the cone-shaped nut together to align the handle once it has been adjusted.

It is customary to install the front wheel so that the quick release handle is on the bicycle's left side.

Quoted from Sheldon Brown's site. http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html

[SoulDuck]

Are you sure it's not just your brake causing the wheel to not spin freely when the quick release is tight? If so just re-adjust your caliper. The QR should be quite tight (50% of your finger strength?)

[BigHitX]

sounds like possibly your cone needs to be adjusted...

[sanrensho]

The QR needs to be as tight as the situation requires. Your cones, on the other hand, have to have some play. That way the play disappears when you clamp the QR.

In other word, your cones need adjustment (loosened out).

[pardus]

i am 100% positive I am using the quick release properly, it just seems its pinching the bearings or something causing it to not spin free, like cranking skateboard wheel nuts when you dont have spacers between your bearings.

Originally Posted by sanrensho

...In other word, your cones need adjustment (loosened out).

ok, so to loosen the cone? looking at the photo in my first post, it would be the black nut on the right and its equivalent on the left?

[420.bc]

sounds like your axle is broken, you probably want to take it to a shop.

[sanrensho]

Originally Posted by pardus

ok, so to loosen the cone? looking at the photo in my first post, it would be the black nut on the right and its equivalent on the left?

Eh, sorry, yours is a cartridge bearing hub, I don't believe there is any cone or preload adjustment to speak of.

If the bearings are toast, I would usually expect more play, not less play.

[DrewM]

What brand of QR are you using? A stock Quando one? Often those QR's have a bearing inside their cam. If the bearing falls out (it happens) then your cam will no longer be working. This will give you the feeling that you are applying a tonne of force; however, that will not be the case.

How old is your QR? Would you say it is in good shape?

...

What kind of frame is it and how old? How long have you been having this problem? Do you have another hub/qr combo you can try in the frame to eliminate the possibility it is your frame?

...

Your sealed bearing hub does not have cones; however, on the drive side there is a nut holding the whole system to together.



1st step: Remove your disc brake caliper. It is the only way to be certain it is not affecting performance i.e. causing the drag you are talking about (as mentioned by other people).

2nd step: With your wheel out of your frame make sure the free-hub body (the part your cassette/cog-sit sits on) is solidly engaged into the hub. Grab onto it and pull it away from the hub-shell/wheel. This part should be solidly attached but should still spin nicely in the freewheeling direction.

3rd step: Make sure the bolt holding the hub together (this is the bolt on the axle on the drive side of the hub). Depending on how far into the free-hub body this bolt is recessed you may need a cone wrench to tighten it. If not you can do so very carefully with an adjustable wrench (it should be easy to put a wrench on the disc brake side). DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.

At this point it will be VERY noticeable if the axle in your hub is in fact broken.

4th step: If everything is tight take a set of calipers and measure your hub width wise at the widest point (the two surfaces that contact the inside of your drop-outs). If your hub is properly assembled this width should be 135mm.

5th step: If you are certain you are using your QR properly and things still are not working it is time to take your frame and hub to your local bike shop. Chances are at this point there is either something wrong with your QR or your frame.

If you read the above and you it seems like you are reading greek. I would replace step-one with take your frame/hub/QR (or complete bike) to your local bike shop.

If your wheel is falling out that is a major safety concern and if you are not 100% certain your safety is worth paying to have it fixed.

-D

[pardus]

Thank you all for your replies, as it turns out, I loosened up my caliper and viola, free spin. It looked ok when I quickly checked it earlier but maybe my QR wasnt tight enough to show it touching then. boy do I feel dumb. Usually I am pretty mechanically inclined, I fix my truck and rebuild lawnmowers etc but usually with a manual and a lot of trial and error. I have only been mountain biking a few years and am trying to learn how to fix my own bike. I have been starting to build a tool collection and figuring stuff out.

Last month bought an '08 Brodie Damien, my first new bike. Trying to put a lot more care into maintenance on it as hopefully it will last a while. One thing I found out was that your spoke need to be re-tensioned after a few rides. I have had probably 12 rides on it before I went to whistler the other day and a couple hours of whips on DM and Aline, I started noticing a super wobbly ride, turns out all my spokes had come completely loose almost to the point of coming off... I had tightened them and took it to the bean for a quick service. the guy did a quick job so that I could finish the day but definitely needs to be trued. Bought a truing stand at MEC on the way home and a spoke wrench and will need to fix it up. Found some good How-To videos online and have done a decent job on my front wheel but need to work on the back now. One thing i noticed it I have a flat spot, hopefully can be fixed and was just a case of the bike&bean mechanic over tightening one section and not a result of running loose spokes.

The only thing I am not totally sure of is how tight the spokes should be. I am plucking them and trying to make them consistant but not sure how high/low the pitch should be. I know the back will be a little different from left to right. What chord on my guitar should I play

[Mr. Charles]

the whole plucking spokes thing is only good for building wheels. after a few hard rides, it's out the window. and even at that it's pretty botch. If you want to learn about wheels, the best thing you can do it find someone to show you. It's not simply a "how tight" question as much as it is a "how tight with consideration of how bent your rim may be, how straight you want it, what side of the rear wheel were talking about, etc..." ... there are tricks to learn.. they aren't hard, but there are little things to know about.