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Old 10-08-2015, 06:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
My Pike experienced the same issue on the first ride after a rebuild (fluid function). I sent it back to the shop, they did a disassemble/reassemble and it's been fine since. Their answer was that maybe a seal somewhere on the air side may have had some debris in it or needed more lube. They could not find anything in particular.
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Originally Posted by F.M. View Post
I had this problem with one of my Pikes. The SRAM manual is not real clear about something: you need to apply plenty of grease/slick honey to the seals and o-rings on the assembly that fits into the bottom of the air-spring side leg. Both between the seal ass'y and the inside of the stanchion, and also between the seal ass'y and the shaft.

Their service manual doesn't really show this, and no grease = migrating air.
thanks for weighing in boys

but these two experiences are troubling. like coolatt, i had this issue pop up almost immediately after getting my fork back from fluid function. i can't imagine there are many people who service more rockshox forks than shawn... so why isn't he doing as f.m. says and slathering grease all over the bottom of the air-spring assembly? is it because he doesn't know about the benefit - seems unlikely - or is there a potential issue with overloading the base of the seals and inners with grease...
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Old 10-08-2015, 06:44 PM   #32
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I had the same issue. It was the seal at the bottom of the air spring shaft. Seems that some shafts have a bad face that the seal struggles to seal on to. Mine happened after I changed the shaft to change the travel. A quick fix is to bleed the air by sliding some photo film down the stanchion under the seal there. IT just gives enough room to let the air out and then you can recharge your spring. Not a long term fix but quicker than dropping the lowers.
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:34 PM   #33
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that's great info jon, and pretty much what i suspected at this point. can i ask:
  • who diagnosed and resolved the issue you were having - did you figure it out yourself?
  • what was the fix? sounds like a new air spring shaft (w/o the bad face) would resolve the problem
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:18 PM   #34
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Apparently it is known that some of the early Pikes had an issue with the finish on the shaft and wouldn't seal. It was diagnosed by replacing the seal and then that seal not working either.... so kind of by elimination.

I took some fine emery cloth and lightly cleaned up the end of the shaft. It seemed to do the trick.
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:38 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Jon-boy View Post
Apparently it is known that some of the early Pikes had an issue with the finish on the shaft and wouldn't seal. It was diagnosed by replacing the seal and then that seal not working either.... so kind of by elimination.

I took some fine emery cloth and lightly cleaned up the end of the shaft. It seemed to do the trick.
Yup nothing like, polishing up the end of the shaft, to keep things from getting stuck down.

Need to add that into the technical manual on Rockshox site. That is what you were referring to correct?
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:23 PM   #36
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I took some fine emery cloth and lightly cleaned up the end of the shaft. It seemed to do the trick.
the end of the shaft, so the threaded bit at the bottom that i've circled??



was it scoring the seals as they went in, and thus compromising them? or was the poor fit at the bottom, so air was leaking in around the foot bolt?
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Old 10-09-2015, 05:28 PM   #37
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Hey Boom,
I think the real issue is that the SRAM service manual actually doesn't say anything about applying grease to the seal head assembly (inside or out) in their service manual. I just checked- see pg 20- and even the pictures don't show any grease.

I think even if you took your fork to a reputable shop, and the followed the service manual to the letter, you could still very likely have the same problem.

I sort of figured it out through trial & error. I think I've been through the travel change service 4-6x on various bikes and never had any issues once I figured out grease was required here.
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Old 10-09-2015, 06:38 PM   #38
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thanks f.m.

i hadn't looked at the service manual - i've never taken my pike apart. part of the attraction of buying it new was that i could send it to an expert if it had any problems. i really appreciate you guys sharing your experiences and advice. i've just had a look at the service manual and noticed the following "notice" spelled out three times:



so the issue my fork has been presenting intermittently since i first pulled it out of the box is documented in the service manual and its cause (or at least the component at fault which would cause it) explicitly identified

maybe i'm being lazy or precious, but if the air spring shaft is the culprit, i would really prefer to have it replaced than try to sand it smooth or keep slathering seals with grease to try to mitigate the problems it is causing
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:08 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
so the issue my fork has been presenting intermittently since i first pulled it out of the box is documented in the service manual and its cause (or at least the component at fault which would cause it) explicitly identified

maybe i'm being lazy or precious, but if the air spring shaft is the culprit, i would really prefer to have it replaced than try to sand it smooth or keep slathering seals with grease to try to mitigate the problems it is causing
well, kind of a chicken or the egg dilemna I think.
First, how would the air shaft get scratched? It would be harder to do this than you think. It only contacts rubber and plastic so unless a tool slips (like the c-ring pliers) I don't think this is likely. Especially on a new fork.

What is likely, is that the quad seal between the seal head and the shaft could get torn. Even when brand new. And how would you prevent this? With lubrication! Which curiously is not specified in the service manual. But we all know lubrication can be helpful when shafts and penetration are involved.

The lube isn't just a solution, it's also preventative maintenance. And it might even reduce stiction. I don't see this as a design issue, it's just a poorly written service manual. I can't think of any reason why you wouldn't want lube on that seal head.

Fortunately that air shaft is like a $30 part. Replacing it is a :15 job. Tips!
  • When removing the snap ring, have a buddy press upwards on the seal head with a flat-head screwdriver, while you remove the snap ring. wrap the tip of the screw drive with elecrtical tape, just in case there's a slip
  • Remove all air from the air spring while pushing up on the air shaft. This will bury it inside the stanchion, so it's protected.
  • When you're re-assembling, make sure the seal head is seated properly in the stanchion. That wave-washer can get hung-up/mis-aligned, which makes it nearly impossible to seat the snap-ring. If the seal head is seated properly it goes pretty easy.

Last edited by F.M.; 10-09-2015 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:12 PM   #40
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well, kind of a chicken or the egg dilemna I think.
First, how would the air shaft get scratched?
i don't think it got scratched. since it's been torn down a few times, i think someone would have noticed damage to the shaft. i think it was defective from the outset. maybe the finish was off as jon suggested, or it is slightly too narrow in diameter to mesh well with the seal
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