Chainsaw supplies

[crawler]

Is it absolutely necessary to use chaps and a face-mask if I'm just cutting deadfall on trails?

Also, do you guys carry your chaps and face-mask when you ride into a trail?

[SilentJ]

Originally Posted by Fraser_Allen

Best saw ever made. Coupled with an 16 or 18 inch bar will be the only saw you will ever need. Unlike huskys the Stihl will run smooth all through its rpm range with no leaning out at mid throttle. I have been a log home builder for 20 years and use my saws 6 hours plus per day and my 361 is going on 8 years old and still starts easy and runs smooth. If you are looking for a big saw to run Alaskan mill or for serious hand stabbing A MS 660 is a great choice. Has tons of power and chain speed for smooth cuts but runs super smooth and like the ms 361 is super reliable. My two cents

Chainsaw carbs don't have a mid-range circuit... It's WOT or idle. Cutting at mid throttle is a recipe for a lean seize no matter what the saw.

To some, the 60cc size is a good all around saw and to some it's a bastard size: too heavy/cumbersome for limbing where a 50cc saw shines and too gutless for falling and occasional milling where a 70cc unit works great.

The 361 was Stihls first (modern, anyways) quad port transfer saw...which (sorry, going to burst your bubble) they essentially stole from Husky...same with spring AV.

Crawler,: I always wear chaps and most of the time wear a facemask/helmet combo. I always wear eye/hearing protection in some form and the helmet is pretty convenient. The weight/space penalty is pretty insignificant when you consider the consequences.

To me, deadfall is the most hazardous cutting you can do: you don't know where the tension is until you start cutting, quality of wood, recipe for widowmakers, etc...

[Tom P]

Originally Posted by crawler

Is it absolutely necessary to use chaps and a face-mask if I'm just cutting deadfall on trails?

chaps, work boots, pressure bandages and eye/ear pro are always a requirement for running a saw safely imo. You will bleed out much, much faster than anyone will be able to get you out of the woods.

[crawler]

Thanks for the advice guys, I often cut alone too, so I'll definitely pick up all the safety gear.

[CraigH]

Originally Posted by chris2

What are you going to be using it for Craig? Sven & I are rocking Stihl MS170's, their smallest model. I've had mine for a few years now and haven't met anything I couldn't cut, even if it means cutting from both sides on large diameter logs (14" bar). Even Stormin Norman the veteran faller was impressed with them. Only thing it doesn't do is ripping / milling but I'm guessing it will live in the van for firewood and back roads clearing. Arrow Equipment in North Van is good, don't bother with Pacific Arborist.

http://www.arrowequipment.ca/sales/c...ihl_ms170.html

Originally Posted by heckler

Albeit it's lightweight plastic that's easy to carry for fat old guys, the MS 170 also has the benefit of the dinky little safety chain. 70 year old logger Stormin Norman at first laughed at the small chain, but once he used it and saw that it does not kick back at all, but cuts very well when properly sharpened he approved. Being alone in the bush and having a saw kickback on me is not somewhere I ever want to be.

I'd buy another MS170

Make sure you budget the chaps and helmet with face guard too.

Even though it is a budget saw, the MS170 worked well.

It is relatively light for riding and it is fuel efficient. (off and on cutting for 3 hours and didn't even use 3 tanks which works out to less than a liter)

Was able to cut up to 16" dia. beatle kill pine with no problem.

Originally Posted by SilentJ

I have a Dakine Builders pack which is ok at best...unfortunately, they placed the location for the saw as far away from your body as possible which puts a hell of a pull on you...I remove the bar on the big MS440. The MS200T fits quite nicely, however. No room for beer when it's loaded up with a saw.

Before I got the builders pack, I used a MEC Brio (can't remember size) that is/was far more comfortable with a heavy load. I rode quite a bit with a 50cc job in this one.

I used a loaner Dakine Builder pack but as SilentJ mentioned, the weight distribution is a little off as it is away from your back. Are there any better pack options out there before I spend the $150-200 for one? Anyone try any of the forest fire fighter packs?

Originally Posted by SilentJ

Also, if you wear a helmet/faceguard/muff combo, the one that Home Depot sells appears to be holding up to my abuse just as well as the Stihl one that I previously had at half the cost.

It is an Echo brand helmet that works well, although I have to figure out a better way to carry it. With the muffs and faceguard on the helmet, it is getting bulky.

[Silk]

For gear bags this is the place I got mine.

http://www.wesspur.com/Bags/gear-bags.html

The "all purpose bag" is like a backpack and will hold everything you need for 55 bucks.

They are located in Bellingham, Washington so shipping is very quick.

The one I have holds everything including Saw pants, helmet, 150'rope, various tools and the Stihl MS460 with bar removed.

[CraigH]

Originally Posted by Silk

For gear bags this is the place I got mine.

http://www.wesspur.com/Bags/gear-bags.html

The "all purpose bag" is like a backpack and will hold everything you need for 55 bucks.

They are located in Bellingham, Washington so shipping is very quick.

The one I have holds everything including Saw pants, helmet, 150'rope, various tools and the Stihl MS460 with bar removed.

Anyone know if any of the local arbourist supply companies have a similar/same backpack? Just trying to avoid ordering from the US if possible.

[Silk]

Originally Posted by SilentJ

Fair enough on the lightweight comment. MS192C is lighter yet with the same power. Be careful out there, a slow cutting saw can contribute to the severity of a barberchair which is just a bad situation an how people truly get dead. Straight grained forward leaners that seem like "easy falls" are often the culprit...

Nothing wrong with safety chain, but to say they do not kick back at all is simply wrong. They are designed to kick back less - it's harder to get them to do it, but they still do it. They should all be treated in the same regard, however; All those chains remove flesh at about the same rate.

Just an FYI, my 50cc MS260(16"bar) would kick back far more violently than my 70cc MS440(28"bar) or even my 100cc 066(32"bar)using the test in the youtubes below... the 35cc MS200T(14" bar) receives far and away the most caution when I use it - it's a honey badger for it's size. Reason being is the lower inertia allows the smaller saws to rotate back on themselves that much faster. The worse kickback with the big saw is if you misjudge the tension in the log and the top of the chain bites and shoves the saw out of the cut...

I got to say something about that video...

That dude was planning for a kick back and was ready for it. "look at how he was positioning himself for it"

When a kick back happens it is instant and without warning and will result in you becoming a pess dispenser.

F that noise...

You MUST wear chaps be it the rap around or the full snow suit style that Husky has "which i wear climbing and working on trails" for about 100 bucks at many places in the lower mainland.

Helmets are also a no brainier with a face mask, unless you do not have a brain. Then have at er.

I have personally seen a dude with an 200T eat a bar blowing a top that resulted in a kick back. Shit was not fun...

I can not even begin to explain the energy involved with a huge blow down under stress.

This is why we have certified fallers.

http://www.bcforestsafe.org/training...ification.html

Anyone without at least basic training is going to result in us all being banned for using saws on trail work...

It should not be a question of if i need this training and equipment, but where can I get such training and equipment.

[Heavy Pedal]

Chaps, steel toes and combo hard hat with ear muffs and face shield as a minimum. I also wear safety glasses behind the shield as chips will still ping pong into your eyes. (wait till you get a chunk rammed up your beak!) I like yellow tint for the foggy west coast bush. Kinda like Prozac glasses, make everything bright! Re-waterproof your chaps regularly. When the "proofing" starts to fail, they are as bad as waterlogged goalie pads.

Keep a tube of shoe goo for when you hit your chaps. Stuff the strings back in and goo the slash!

You can get pressure bandages that have the gauze already sewn to the tensor. Comes in a neat little package that fits in the top of your hardhat so you always have it with you.

Stay away from leather type gloves that can become slippery when wet. I like the blue "atlas" style with the rubber palm. Assists with grip. Barehand works but can be chilly after a while.

You can get combo jerry cans that holds 4 liters fuel and 1.5 of bar oil in a neat little package. I also bought a little webbing pack from army surplus that holds swiss army saw tool,files, spare spark plug, chain and tip grease. Goes on a webbed belt that I wear. Cheap at $20.

Always keep in mind that chainsaws tend to be a "one fuckup tool" I've hit myself twice and been saved by helmet and chaps. I have seen fallout from much more significant injury as well. Its not to be feared but definitely respected.

Be safe, have fun and remember -"Every cut counts."

[Ship-it-fed-ex]

I got the Husq 353 with a 18 inch bar its awesome, light and powerful. I highly reccomend it!

Originally Posted by SilentJ

If you can get down there, the US prices on Husqvarna are phenomenal as compared to Canadia - the Husky 353 is probably the best bang for the buck if you can still find one. Husky has started switching their saws to a strato design (model #555) which is a fair chunk more chedda and more complex.

I have a Dakine Builders pack which is ok at best...unfortunately, they placed the location for the saw as far away from your body as possible which puts a hell of a pull on you...I remove the bar on the big MS440. The MS200T fits quite nicely, however. No room for beer when it's loaded up with a saw.

Before I got the builders pack, I used a MEC Brio (can't remember size) that is/was far more comfortable with a heavy load. I rode quite a bit with a 50cc job in this one.

Currently, I've been rockin the MODBOB, which carries the 066, a six pack, fuel and my builders pack (helmet, chaps, tools, poo tickets, etc..) just nicely.

[SilentJ]

Originally Posted by Silk

I got to say something about that video...

That dude was planning for a kick back and was ready for it. "look at how he was positioning himself for it"

When a kick back happens it is instant and without warning and will result in you becoming a pess dispenser.

F that noise...

I read your post a couple times after mine and don't understand what your point is? I was trying to point out that a long bar does not equal danger any more than a short bar and that sometimes the opposite is true and I'm sure a lot of people out there have this misconception.

I've had various levels of unexpected kickback over the years and it is not a death sentence as you describe - keep your shit out of the way and your bar won't have anything to hit. With all due respect to guys who get cut, it's 100% their fault. Cuts are not "accidents", they're negligence***

How else are you going to know what it feels like or if your chain brake works without trying it in a "controlled" manner? My brand new out of the box MS260 chain brake didn't engage...I wonder how many people check this on the regular?


**Please don't get all pissy about this statement as I'm sure there is a tiny percentage of injuries that occur that could be somehow classified as non-preventable.

[Silk]

Sorry to reply so late S-J been busy with work and all..

My point was to more the people who say "do I really need the helmet, visor, chaps" when clearing dead fall.

The dangers are huge and unknown to the untrained eye.

I would say a Big bar might actually be safer than a small bar on something like a 200T in regards to weight vs power ratio. But that is my own personal experience.

I never work with a small saw and climb only with a 26 or larger with a full rap around handle. "its like a bow and arrow" in the regards on the Difficulty on nailing yourself in the foot

I see to many people recommending the 200T when in fact it is the #1 killer of all saws.

[heckler]

Originally Posted by crawler

Is it absolutely necessary to use chaps and a face-mask if I'm just cutting deadfall on trails?

Also, do you guys carry your chaps and face-mask when you ride into a trail?

Yes and yes. Safety first!

YouTube Video

[Gary Harder]

It can be a bit of a pain to put on your chaps and helmut but.
Always seems the quick cuts and work ,takes longer .
One misstep can cost you your life.
I totally enjoy working in the woods,and trailbuilding especially making art out of trailbuilding.
Over the years branch's coming back , laidover trees,kicking you down.
The more you can have "pro" attitude the better,put on the chaps,helmut and earprotection.
Keep that saw sharp and the " brain always ON"
No one wants to hear of you going down.
I keep a tension bandage on hand and whistle close to me,in case of ugliness.
My wife is somewhat relieved when I tell her of my preparation.
At the end of the day, a mistake could cost your life.
Put on the safety gear and show the young guns ,what it takes.
G