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Old 08-13-2012, 09:48 PM   #16
CraigH
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Wondering if I should replace my saw rather than getting it fixed. It was a freebie but I'm wondering if it would be better to put the $$$ into a new saw.

It is an old Echo with a 16" blade, non-roller tip, I think it is missing part of the handle and the throttle lock is broken so it is tough to start. Chain is almost done too.

What brand & model are people using these days?
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:32 PM   #17
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What are you going to be using it for Craig? Sven & I are rocking Stihl MS170's, their smallest model. I've had mine for a few years now and haven't met anything I couldn't cut, even if it means cutting from both sides on large diameter logs (14" bar). Even Stormin Norman the veteran faller was impressed with them. Only thing it doesn't do is ripping / milling but I'm guessing it will live in the van for firewood and back roads clearing. Arrow Equipment in North Van is good, don't bother with Pacific Arborist.

http://www.arrowequipment.ca/sales/c...ihl_ms170.html

Last edited by chris2; 08-13-2012 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:59 PM   #18
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^ Those little stihl saws are great, also keep your eyes on craigslist I picked up a 45cc 18" echo in great shape for $150.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:19 AM   #19
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What are you going to be using it for Craig? Sven & I are rocking Stihl MS170's, their smallest model. I've had mine for a few years now and haven't met anything I couldn't cut, even if it means cutting from both sides on large diameter logs (14" bar). Even Stormin Norman the veteran faller was impressed with them. Only thing it doesn't do is ripping / milling but I'm guessing it will live in the van for firewood and back roads clearing. Arrow Equipment in North Van is good, don't bother with Pacific Arborist.

http://www.arrowequipment.ca/sales/c...ihl_ms170.html
Thanks Chris! That is pretty much what I'm thinking of using it for.

So far I've used my old Echo for cutting up a bunch of logs the previous owner left in my wood shed and then cutting out a beetle kill pine to access a campsite in the Chilcotin. It worked for that but getting it started was a lot of work and made me realize how beat it was. By the time I get a saw shop to fix the issues mentioned above I could get a new one.
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:33 PM   #20
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Thanks Chris! That is pretty much what I'm thinking of using it for.

So far I've used my old Echo for cutting up a bunch of logs the previous owner left in my wood shed and then cutting out a beetle kill pine to access a campsite in the Chilcotin. It worked for that but getting it started was a lot of work and made me realize how beat it was. By the time I get a saw shop to fix the issues mentioned above I could get a new one.
JMHO:

I must be a saw snob because all I see in the 170 is a plastic boat anchor...

Do it right: kick it up a notch to the 50cc pro class and you'll get a saw that'll last a lifetime and save you $$ and headaches in the long run - plus you'll cut twice as much in the same time: MS261/260/026, Husqvarna 353/359/346xp, or if you can find one a rear handle MS200...they're all easily rebuildable and have a proper mag vertically split case, they'll run a proper .325 chain as opposed to the tiny picco chain.

If you're not riding with it, then the small weight/size difference shouldn't be an issue...(I ride with my 70cc saw all the time, so it shouldn't be an issue either way)
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:14 PM   #21
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JMHO:

I must be a saw snob because all I see in the 170 is a plastic boat anchor...

Do it right: kick it up a notch to the 50cc pro class and you'll get a saw that'll last a lifetime and save you $$ and headaches in the long run - plus you'll cut twice as much in the same time: MS261/260/026, Husqvarna 353/359/346xp, or if you can find one a rear handle MS200...they're all easily rebuildable and have a proper mag vertically split case, they'll run a proper .325 chain as opposed to the tiny picco chain.

If you're not riding with it, then the small weight/size difference shouldn't be an issue...(I ride with my 70cc saw all the time, so it shouldn't be an issue either way)
Thanks for the info!

What kind of pack are you using that you can ride with a saw? There are a couple of bike trails with a lot of blow down on them that I was thinking I was going to hike in. Having a saw in a pack would make for a lot quicker trip out.

I'm a little partial to the Husqvarna saws as that is what I used to use when I worked with Parks Canada.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:26 PM   #22
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Thanks for the info!

What kind of pack are you using that you can ride with a saw? There are a couple of bike trails with a lot of blow down on them that I was thinking I was going to hike in. Having a saw in a pack would make for a lot quicker trip out.

I'm a little partial to the Husqvarna saws as that is what I used to use when I worked with Parks Canada.
If you can get down there, the US prices on Husqvarna are phenomenal as compared to Canadia - the Husky 353 is probably the best bang for the buck if you can still find one. Husky has started switching their saws to a strato design (model #555) which is a fair chunk more chedda and more complex.

I have a Dakine Builders pack which is ok at best...unfortunately, they placed the location for the saw as far away from your body as possible which puts a hell of a pull on you...I remove the bar on the big MS440. The MS200T fits quite nicely, however. No room for beer when it's loaded up with a saw.

Before I got the builders pack, I used a MEC Brio (can't remember size) that is/was far more comfortable with a heavy load. I rode quite a bit with a 50cc job in this one.

Currently, I've been rockin the MODBOB, which carries the 066, a six pack, fuel and my builders pack (helmet, chaps, tools, poo tickets, etc..) just nicely.

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:43 AM   #23
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Holy crap, what is that a bob on steriods?
I have a bob and have loved that baby from Australia to New Zealand and Mexico.
Since I also hike in and heavy is a problem as I get cough.... wheez "older"
This looks good.
I am all for good ideas.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:26 AM   #24
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Albeit it's lightweight plastic that's easy to carry for fat old guys, the MS 170 also has the benefit of the dinky little safety chain. 70 year old logger Stormin Norman at first laughed at the small chain, but once he used it and saw that it does not kick back at all, but cuts very well when properly sharpened he approved. Being alone in the bush and having a saw kickback on me is not somewhere I ever want to be.

I'd buy another MS170

Make sure you budget the chaps and helmet with face guard too.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:49 PM   #25
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Albeit it's lightweight plastic that's easy to carry for fat old guys, the MS 170 also has the benefit of the dinky little safety chain. 70 year old logger Stormin Norman at first laughed at the small chain, but once he used it and saw that it does not kick back at all, but cuts very well when properly sharpened he approved. Being alone in the bush and having a saw kickback on me is not somewhere I ever want to be.

I'd buy another MS170

Make sure you budget the chaps and helmet with face guard too.
Fair enough on the lightweight comment. MS192C is lighter yet with the same power. Be careful out there, a slow cutting saw can contribute to the severity of a barberchair which is just a bad situation an how people truly get dead. Straight grained forward leaners that seem like "easy falls" are often the culprit...

Nothing wrong with safety chain, but to say they do not kick back at all is simply wrong. They are designed to kick back less - it's harder to get them to do it, but they still do it. They should all be treated in the same regard, however; All those chains remove flesh at about the same rate.

Just an FYI, my 50cc MS260(16"bar) would kick back far more violently than my 70cc MS440(28"bar) or even my 100cc 066(32"bar)using the test in the youtubes below... the 35cc MS200T(14" bar) receives far and away the most caution when I use it - it's a honey badger for it's size. Reason being is the lower inertia allows the smaller saws to rotate back on themselves that much faster. The worse kickback with the big saw is if you misjudge the tension in the log and the top of the chain bites and shoves the saw out of the cut...
YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:38 PM   #26
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Make sure you budget the chaps and helmet with face guard too.
I've bought the chaps but still need to buy face shield.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:40 PM   #27
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Holy crap, what is that a bob on steriods?
I have a bob and have loved that baby from Australia to New Zealand and Mexico.
Since I also hike in and heavy is a problem as I get cough.... wheez "older"
This looks good.
I am all for good ideas.
g
The BOB is not actually mine, but I have unlimited use of it. I was finding that the wee wheel was getting hung up on rocks/roots when riding trails and I was worried about flatting so I wanted to mod it to run a 24" x 3.0" without having to cut and weld on the BOB itself. It's just two brackets that bolt onto the dropout and the rear portion of the BOB frame itself. I would have done it differently had it actually been my unit.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:53 PM   #28
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Those safety chains suck period. Throw them out and use proper saw technique/body positioning and you will be fine. If you can't get another proper chain for your saw, well then that's saying something about the saw your running. Most saws can be upgraded with a bigger sprocket/bar to run better chain but I haven't a clue about the low end arborist saws. The MS200 runs non safety chain and cuts great for a little baby saw. Its no 880 though, that's for sure. 880 plus 60" bar equals fun times.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentJ View Post
If you can get down there, the US prices on Husqvarna are phenomenal as compared to Canadia - the Husky 353 is probably the best bang for the buck if you can still find one. Husky has started switching their saws to a strato design (model #555) which is a fair chunk more chedda and more complex.
I second this. My 353 has been amazing.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:05 AM   #30
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Stihl. 361

Best saw ever made. Coupled with an 16 or 18 inch bar will be the only saw you will ever need. Unlike huskys the Stihl will run smooth all through its rpm range with no leaning out at mid throttle. I have been a log home builder for 20 years and use my saws 6 hours plus per day and my 361 is going on 8 years old and still starts easy and runs smooth. If you are looking for a big saw to run Alaskan mill or for serious hand stabbing A MS 660 is a great choice. Has tons of power and chain speed for smooth cuts but runs super smooth and like the ms 361 is super reliable. My two cents

Last edited by Fraser_Allen; 09-05-2012 at 05:10 AM. Reason: Wanted to add more
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