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Bicycle Café
11-13-2006, 01:12 PM
The idea for this thread is an opportunity for board members to post technical questions for the Bicycle Cafe (http://www.bicyclecafe.com/kamloops)to answer. So post your your well thought out technical questions for the techs from Bicycle Cafe (http://www.bicyclecafe.com) to answer.
Please ask mechnical or technical questions (example " I have a Fox 40, can I reduce the travel and how?") Please avoid questions based on opinions or pricing questions (Example "Which is better a Devinci or a Giant?" or "how much does a 07 Rockshox Totem cost?")
This way board members can get advice from the Bicycle Cafe (http://www.bicyclecafe.com/kamloops) shop mechanics and help with their gear from solid sources. All other responses from other board members will be deleted.
http://cafe.autisticpig.com/zoolander/bloguploads/Brock%201.jpg




thewalrus
11-13-2006, 01:29 PM
When will Avid Code brakes be available?

What do the brake pads look like? I've heard they're different from the BB7/Juicy 7 standard design.

Bicycle Café
11-13-2006, 01:55 PM
Avid Codes are already available.
The brake pads are different as they are a four piston brake. Here is a link to the Avid code page where you can check out the Codes (http://www.sram.com/en/avid/hydraulicdiscbrakes/code.php).
http://www.pricepoint.com/images/styleImages/D_048%20AVDCD7.jpg

Ed von Schleck
11-13-2006, 04:08 PM
Great topic! Here are 2 things that I´m wondering about:

1) I wanna rebuild my 2006 RS Pike 426 U-Turn but I can´t find any manuals on the rock shox website. I´ve never rebuilt a fork before and I´m gonna buy a new one soon anyway, so my purpose of taking the fork apart is 1) checking if everything´s alright and 2) learning how to do something like that. As far as I´m concerned the warranty would be invalid if I open the fork but since I bought it approx. 5000 miles away, that doesn´t really matter to me. So could you give me a basic explaination of how to rebuild that fork, what to check for etc. or tell me where I could get a rebuild manual from?

2) I´m still debating over which frame to buy, either a Giant Glory or a Reign, but I really like the way Kurt Sorge´s ReignX is spec´d, however I´m not too sure about the Deemax wheels. They´re actually not too expensive over here (500 € front + rear which is about the same as 721s laced to Hope ProIIs or DT Swiss 440s), and spokes are easily available as well. So what are the pro´s and con´s of the Deemax wheels? I know that there are some, e.g. they supposedly require frequent maintenance, but how exactly would I have to maintain them (basic like spoke tension etc.) or is it way more complicated with those wheels?

Thanks in advance!
Moritz

Bicycle Café
11-13-2006, 04:24 PM
1) Here is the tech manual for the 2006 Pike forks (http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/06Combo32_English.pdf). It's a combo manual but it has a table of contents so I hope it has the answers you need. It has schematics and if you get stuck and need more specifics just ask.
2) Deemax's are great wheels. Under heavy side load however the spokes can pop out of the hub flange and possibly cause damage. A special spoke key is required but should come with the wheels. Maintaining good spoke tension is always important on any wheel. The hub life is very good on Deemax's but the Dt 440s and Hope hubs are also of excellent quality.

white ri0t
11-13-2006, 06:08 PM
what happened to the ramp outside your shop?

Bicycle Café
11-13-2006, 08:21 PM
A very good technical question.

I think you are talking about this ramp?
http://cafe.autisticpig.com/gal/albums/userpics/10001/normal_slinger.JPG
We still have it. It's currently on loan to team rider Graham Agassiz. Apparenlty he is going to try to learn a trick.

mace2
11-14-2006, 03:03 PM
I've heard the right suspension set up is such that it generally bottoms out once a ride. Is that correct? Could this cause the shock mounts on the frame to crack?

Thanks.

Bicycle Café
11-14-2006, 03:13 PM
Suspension setup is a fairly complex topic. It is true that you should be using all your travel on your biggest hit but it should be cushioning the blow so that you feel like it's helping. Shocks today are very adjustable for the progressiveness of the travel and the bottoming out characteristics of the shock help you set it so you are able to feel the benefits of your suspension on the high speed small bumps and then it ramps up to take big hits.
It is possible to do damage to your shock mounts if you are taking huge hits and your shock is bottoming out hard. For example, drops to flat or dansitions, where your shock is able to go through it's travel and it's bottom out bumper very quickly.

freakonaleash
11-14-2006, 11:15 PM
Two Questions

1. My 03 Junior T bottoms out way too much. Im 5'6, about 120. I feel I should add some oil. So regarding oil, what would happen if i just threw some air tool oil in there ?

2. After a recent bail, i popped the piston out of the top of my hayes lever(ball end,pushes at the top of the hose) and than i put it back. It works, but there is lots of play. Why is this, and how can i fix it ?

C.Lee
11-14-2006, 11:41 PM
can 02 shiver dc use 888 seals? same stanchions diameter... what other parts are interchangeable?

Bicycle Café
11-15-2006, 10:59 AM
can 02 shiver dc use 888 seals? same stanchions diameter... what other parts are interchangeable?

Yes they sure can use the same seals. They are the same seal kits but no other parts are interchangable.

Bicycle Café
11-15-2006, 11:12 AM
Two Questions

1. My 03 Junior T bottoms out way too much. Im 5'6, about 120. I feel I should add some oil. So regarding oil, what would happen if i just threw some air tool oil in there ?

2. After a recent bail, i popped the piston out of the top of my hayes lever(ball end,pushes at the top of the hose) and than i put it back. It works, but there is lots of play. Why is this, and how can i fix it ?

1. Adding oil isn't going to solve bottoming out issues. Do not use any fluid other than fork oil. Please be sure your oil height is correct here (http://www.marzocchi.com/spa/mtb/products/oillevel.asp?LN=UK&Sito=usa-mtb&Y=2003). To solve issues with bottoming out you should look at upgrading to heavier springs if you have the stock springs. Although you are light those forks tended to be undersprung for agressive riders. There are two sets of springs on your fork so you could change out only one set of springs to get a slightly heavier feel. When you upgrade to heavier springs replacing your fork oil with a heavier weight can help control rebound better as this fork has no external adjustements.

2. Replacing your washer and the snap ring which retain your pushrod will fix your play. If no fluid has leaked out you should be able to replace these parts with fresh ones without needing to rebleed the brake.

Aggy
11-15-2006, 06:39 PM
A very good technical question.

I think you are talking about this ramp?
http://cafe.autisticpig.com/gal/albums/userpics/10001/normal_slinger.JPG
We still have it. It's currently on loan to team rider Graham Agassiz. Apparenlty he is going to try to learn a trick.

flair double whip!:rocker:

nik
11-15-2006, 09:05 PM
I'm using Avid BB5 brakes, and when I take the pads out to clean, I can't figure out for sure which is the left or right pad. The manual says that one side is blue while the other side is black, but both my pads are red :D Any idea which is which, or does it make a difference?

I've looked at BB5 replacement pads at some stores, and some of them are blue/black while others are red/red. I think the new batches are red/red.

heckler
11-16-2006, 01:16 AM
what a great idea! from the looks of it, you're going to be busy!

can I change a Chris King rear hub over to Funn bolts? Do I need to buy a special axle, or do I just need the bolts?

jpi
11-16-2006, 09:58 AM
Q: DU bushings last about 2 rides on my bike before I start feeling play again. (6-way, B-One Woodbumble Plus). Is there a stronger DU bushing available, or is there something else going on here?

Bicycle Café
11-16-2006, 11:05 AM
I'm using Avid BB5 brakes, and when I take the pads out to clean, I can't figure out for sure which is the left or right pad. The manual says that one side is blue while the other side is black, but both my pads are red :D Any idea which is which, or does it make a difference?

I've looked at BB5 replacement pads at some stores, and some of them are blue/black while others are red/red. I think the new batches are red/red.

The new Red Avid pads are asymetrical so you can use either pad on either side. The information hasn't been updated in the manual yet by SRAM to show the change to the newer pads.

Bicycle Café
11-16-2006, 11:28 AM
what a great idea! from the looks of it, you're going to be busy!

can I change a Chris King rear hub over to Funn bolts? Do I need to buy a special axle, or do I just need the bolts?

The Funbolt kit option is only available to work with the Heavy duty one piece axle not the stock three piece axle. There is a possibility that you may have a heavy duty axle with the quick release adapter in it. Some of the new Chris King hubs being sold in Canada are already coming with the heavy duty kit.
If you need to upgrade your axle to have fun bolts be aware you will also need to purchase a heavy duty adjusting clamp.

Bicycle Café
11-16-2006, 11:32 AM
Q: DU bushings last about 2 rides on my bike before I start feeling play again. (6-way, B-One Woodbumble Plus). Is there a stronger DU bushing available, or is there something else going on here?

Mantiou Du bushings are standard however you shouldn't be running through them so quickly. There are other possibilities to why you are wearing them prematurely which have more to do with frame, linkage or reducers than Manitou rear shocks.
Have you checked to see if your reducers are potentially worn? Also check to be sure your shock bolts are straight. If bolts are bent or reducers are worn out and you are just replacing DU bushings it is a losing battle.

freakonaleash
11-16-2006, 06:36 PM
Whats wrong with using air tool oil in a fork ? Technical answer :)

thewalrus
11-16-2006, 07:04 PM
MANY questions:

What brand/spec of cartridge bearings do I need for White Industries H1 front and rear road hubs?

Do you clamp road bike carbon seatposts in workstands, or use a temporary workstand-only alloy post? Or neither, using one of those Park Tool stands that supports the bike under the bottom bracket?

Shimano chains always come with a very thick layer of grease on them. I remove this stuff with a solvent (simple green + toothbrush) and then rinse the chain with hot water, drip dry and air dry. After that the chain gets a small drip of triflow applied to each roller, then is pulled through absorbent rags many times to get the excess triflow off. I've seen some people say that you're never supposed to take the factory grease off a Shimano chain - but then how are you supposed to clean it? What solvents and chain lubs do you use in the shop?

Do bike shops consider it efficient to buy and use ultrasonic degreasers/automated parts cleaning machines? I've seen them advertised in bike industry trade journals and websites, but I've yet to see one in a shop.

Bicycle Café
11-16-2006, 08:19 PM
Whats wrong with using air tool oil in a fork ? Technical answer :)

An interesting question. I can't get a exact oil weight on air tool oil, only that it is of a high viscosity for extreme heat which isn't what your looking for in a Junior T fork. You should be running 7.5 stock and you could run 10 weight.
The information I did find on most brands mentioned that it was not for use with tools with rubber O rings in them. This would mean it wouldn't be recommended for forks which have rubber seals.
Standard fork oil isn's overly expensive and also is designed to protct rubber seals and O rings from swelling causing leaks. I suppose you could use many things in your fork like Cristco, peanut butter, pancake batter.... but why would you? Even some motorcross oils aren't for use in bicycle forks.

freakonaleash
11-16-2006, 08:32 PM
Haha thanks. just wanted a specific reason, and not just use fork oil haha. THanks

Bicycle Café
11-16-2006, 08:41 PM
MANY questions:

What brand/spec of cartridge bearings do I need for White Industries H1 front and rear road hubs?

Do you clamp road bike carbon seatposts in workstands, or use a temporary workstand-only alloy post? Or neither, using one of those Park Tool stands that supports the bike under the bottom bracket?

Shimano chains always come with a very thick layer of grease on them. I remove this stuff with a solvent (simple green + toothbrush) and then rinse the chain with hot water, drip dry and air dry. After that the chain gets a small drip of triflow applied to each roller, then is pulled through absorbent rags many times to get the excess triflow off. I've seen some people say that you're never supposed to take the factory grease off a Shimano chain - but then how are you supposed to clean it? What solvents and chain lubs do you use in the shop?

Do bike shops consider it efficient to buy and use ultrasonic degreasers/automated parts cleaning machines? I've seen them advertised in bike industry trade journals and websites, but I've yet to see one in a shop.

For White Industries (http://www.whiteind.com/road_hubs.html)hubs they are using very common bearings. 6801 for the front, 6802 and 6809for the rear. As far as brand, most bike companies spec a reasonable brand for what the intended use is. We carry Enduro bearings for most applications. If you go to an industrial bearing shop you can get a nicer bearing but you'll spend a lot more. You could always go ceramic if your wallet wants a real beating.

Carbon posts always need to be treated with care. Clamping them carefully and not over clamping in a standard work stand is fine for most jobs. Make sure you have a nice soft jaw to protect it though. Most stands do rely on the seatpost for supporting the bike so it can be an issue for jobs where you are going to be putting extreme force on the bike (ie bb cups). Certain seat posts, carbon especially, rely on bonding an aluminum to the carbon shaft which is where the issue lies. We would recommend using another post for repairs or looking into the Park PRS20 work stand (http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=23&item=PRS%2D20).
Yes feel free to clean that factory crap off. I am sure it works fine but it is sticky as hell and gets everywhere. Usually for intense drivetrain cleans we use an industrial solvent in our solvent tank. For less invloved cleans a bio degreaser like Castrol superclean can do the job. WD40 is also an option but remember kids it's a solvent, not a lubricant.
Ultrasonic degreasers/automated parts cleaning machines are featued at Interbike every year and every year we walk right by. They obviously work well but as for being a feasable product to use in the shop....???

SRH
11-29-2006, 05:16 PM
My Boxxer Teams leak when I set my bike down on it's side....They are crying out for help. Should I give them a Kleenex?

Seriously though...they are leaky :(

Bicycle Café
11-29-2006, 05:59 PM
Ahhh yes. I am familiar with this issue in a few Boxxer Team forks where they leak out of the compression knob. This was an issue with the umbrella seal in a few of the 06 models and was easily fixed by replacing the seal or in a "must have now" situation can be retrofitted using 2 o-rings stacked on each other to make up the same amount of height and diameter as the umbrella seal. The problem is that the seal actually tears on the edge of the lip and oil will bypass it and leak out of the knob. Bring it in and we will replace the seal with a new one for you!

Aggy
11-29-2006, 06:24 PM
i was just riding along and my bottem bracket broke. it must be a warranty right?

thewalrus
11-29-2006, 09:26 PM
Does this involve twelve foot dorps to falt?

:D :D :D

cheryl@nsmb.com
11-29-2006, 09:34 PM
Apparently both your spell checks broke as well.

Shrew
11-29-2006, 10:33 PM
1) Why is graham aggasiz so amazing?

2) What's the lowest ammount of travel an argyle can be lowered to?

thewwkayaker
11-30-2006, 09:40 AM
I asked this is Gear already but I thought I'd throw it here for another take (although I agree with the consensus). Here is the original Question and the link to the thread:

I have one for the engineers....

If you had a frame that accepted a shock with a stroke of X and you replaced that shock (same I2I) with a stroke of say X+0.25" assuming the frame did not now hit itself (including tires) at max downstroke would there be any consequences? Would the frame now be stressed out etc.?

I don't see how there would be any problems given the above conditions.

Some of you may have even tried this on frames.. if so - results?

http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=88066

Bicycle Café
11-30-2006, 11:13 AM
1) Why is graham aggasiz so amazing?
2) What's the lowest ammount of travel an argyle can be lowered to?
1) Well Graham is amazing because he was raised by loving parents who supported him in bmx racing and motocross. This wonderful upbringing has made him the gentle soul he is today.

2) The Arygle 409 Solo Air comes with travel spacers to internally adjust the fork to 85mm.

Bicycle Café
11-30-2006, 11:18 AM
I asked this is Gear already but I thought I'd throw it here for another take (although I agree with the consensus). Here is the original Question and the link to the thread:

I have one for the engineers....

If you had a frame that accepted a shock with a stroke of X and you replaced that shock (same I2I) with a stroke of say X+0.25" assuming the frame did not now hit itself (including tires) at max downstroke would there be any consequences? Would the frame now be stressed out etc.?

I don't see how there would be any problems given the above conditions.

Some of you may have even tried this on frames.. if so - results?

http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=88066

Sometimes you can get away with an extra .25 inch in stroke depending on suspension design, because some designs will go past where they are engineered to go and bind. Take the coil off and take all the air out of the shock and cycle the rear suspension through it's motion to determine if the frame will travel through. Best of luck.
We have tried this on various frames with mixed results.

Chief
11-30-2006, 10:12 PM
if i buy a set of diabolus cranks that origanally had a 83mm bb. can i use a 68/73 mm bb instead with the same cranks?

thewalrus
11-30-2006, 10:20 PM
1) Well Graham is amazing because he was raised by loving parents who supported him in bmx racing and motocross. This wonderful upbringing has made him the gentle soul he is today.


You have a future in politics....

Bicycle Café
12-01-2006, 10:18 AM
if i buy a set of diabolus cranks that origanally had a 83mm bb. can i use a 68/73 mm bb instead with the same cranks?

The spindle is longer in the 83mm diabolous cranks so if you would like to run a 68/73mm bb with it you will need to purchase a Raceface spacer kit to fill the additional space. This setup is common with the Demo 9.

Shrew
12-07-2006, 10:17 PM
2) The Arygle 409 Solo Air comes with travel spacers to internally adjust the fork to 85mm.

To follow up on the question. Can the 318 be adjusted aswell?

+ is the flood gate adjustment knob (gold) shorter then the Pike? If not, is this flood gate knob removable?

Thanks!

*GiMpY_jR*
12-07-2006, 10:26 PM
hey... I laced myself up a set of xm 819 mavic rims on hadley hubs with dt swiss spokes for last race season.. yada yada... anywho being that i used them for racing i beat the crap outta em, they're holding up pretty well but some of the nipples have gotten kinda round and outta shape... well i bought some new nips for the rim but i seem to have lost what ever tool i had before to put the weird "2nd" nipple the rims use like the deemax to keep the ust deal happining... my question to you is.. this tool is different then the plastic disc used on say.. 03/04 deemax wheels and i havent had any luck finding one that does... can i order one from ogc or what??

help help!

Bicycle Café
12-08-2006, 11:09 AM
To follow up on the question. Can the 318 be adjusted aswell?

+ is the flood gate adjustment knob (gold) shorter then the Pike? If not, is this flood gate knob removable?

Thanks!

The 318 is a fixed 100mmm length. Because it is a coil fork it's not meant to be adjusted like the 409.

+Yes the knob is shorter and you will be able to remove it but you won't gain any clearance if you are trying to Xup or tailwhip since the knob slides over a shaft.

Bicycle Café
12-08-2006, 11:11 AM
hey... I laced myself up a set of xm 819 mavic rims on hadley hubs with dt swiss spokes for last race season.. yada yada... anywho being that i used them for racing i beat the crap outta em, they're holding up pretty well but some of the nipples have gotten kinda round and outta shape... well i bought some new nips for the rim but i seem to have lost what ever tool i had before to put the weird "2nd" nipple the rims use like the deemax to keep the ust deal happining... my question to you is.. this tool is different then the plastic disc used on say.. 03/04 deemax wheels and i havent had any luck finding one that does... can i order one from ogc or what??

help help!

Yes it is a much larger diameter tool. It is very easy to order from Mavic through OGC.

*GiMpY_jR*
12-09-2006, 01:49 AM
alright, wicked thanks for the quick response!

BG_Ride
12-09-2006, 06:02 AM
Hey guys, could you tell me the exact size of the oil seals for Shiver DC/888/66 forks? Thanks

stacy kohut
12-09-2006, 11:01 AM
i am having a hardtime with my current drivetrain.........

the chain is squeeky,the shifting is noisey, and i don't like the color of my cranks?also, what can i do to keep my feet on the pedals?ducttape?

Bicycle Café
12-09-2006, 11:35 AM
Hey guys, could you tell me the exact size of the oil seals for Shiver DC/888/66 forks? Thanks

The Seal size is a 35mm seal

Bicycle Café
12-09-2006, 11:36 AM
i am having a hardtime with my current drivetrain.........

the chain is squeeky,the shifting is noisey, and i don't like the color of my cranks?also, what can i do to keep my feet on the pedals?ducttape?

Sounds like you have a case of drivetrain envy?
I think it stems from the COP dual races where I beat you so badly.

cheryl@nsmb.com
12-26-2006, 06:23 PM
i was just riding along and my bottem bracket broke. it must be a warranty right?

Knowing you it's not!

Aggy
12-28-2006, 10:54 PM
i was cleaning my rotors the other day, and decided to lube them up with some WD40. Now they are not working at all! Please Bicycle Cafe what can i do?

BNoel
12-28-2006, 11:10 PM
i was cleaning my rotors the other day, and decided to lube them up with some WD40. Now they are not working at all! Please Bicycle Cafe what can i do?

First: hit your frame with a hammer
Second: weld your hammer to the table


Now my question,

Do you guys rebuild rear shocks at the store or would you have to send it away to manitou?

Bicycle Café
12-29-2006, 09:41 AM
i was cleaning my rotors the other day, and decided to lube them up with some WD40. Now they are not working at all! Please Bicycle Cafe what can i do?

Lubing rotors is actually more common then you would think. Sometimes it's an accident with chain lube overspray, sometimes it's a theory to stopping your rotors from squeeking. The best thing to do is to remove the WD40 as quickly as possible and clean the rotors with iso. The rotors will be easy to fix, the brake pads are another story. We can sometimes clean off brake bads through several means, burning them, clean streak....but if they are too contaminated you are looking at new pads as the only way to get your brakes stopping like before they were lubed.

Bicycle Café
12-29-2006, 09:43 AM
First: hit your frame with a hammer
Second: weld your hammer to the table


Now my question,

Do you guys rebuild rear shocks at the store or would you have to send it away to manitou?

I need a bit more information. What shock is it and what is it doing? Many shocks get sent into Mantiou for repair. With the change in service centers if your shock needs some work we can't do in the shop I would bring it in to be shipped away as soon as possible.

BNoel
12-29-2006, 01:42 PM
I need a bit more information. What shock is it and what is it doing? Many shocks get sent into Mantiou for repair. With the change in service centers if your shock needs some work we can't do in the shop I would bring it in to be shipped away as soon as possible.

Actually, I have put some more thought into it and i think im just going to get a new shock. I havent really ever liked the swinger 6 way on my giant dh comp anyway. The only thing I was wondering about this is, how hard is it to get my hands on another shock with the remote resivoir thingy with the same mounting bracket as the swinger? Or is this swinger made specificaly for the dh team and dh comp?


Brook.

Bicycle Café
12-29-2006, 02:19 PM
Actually, I have put some more thought into it and i think im just going to get a new shock. I havent really ever liked the swinger 6 way on my giant dh comp anyway. The only thing I was wondering about this is, how hard is it to get my hands on another shock with the remote resivoir thingy with the same mounting bracket as the swinger? Or is this swinger made specificaly for the dh team and dh comp?


Brook.

The Swinger was designed for 04 and 05 Giant Dh bikes exclusively.
You can fit other shocks into the frame but you'll have to pull it out to adjust it.

BNoel
12-29-2006, 05:19 PM
oh rats...

coolie
12-29-2006, 08:14 PM
hi,

can i have a 4" Z1 by putting the damping cartridges of a 99 Z1 QR20 into a 99 Z3 QR20?

Bicycle Café
12-30-2006, 11:17 AM
hi,

can i have a 4" Z1 by putting the damping cartridges of a 99 Z1 QR20 into a 99 Z3 QR20?

99 was quite a while ago. We are going to do some more research and get back to you as soon as the holidays are over. Sit tight, an answer is coming.

knowles
12-30-2006, 03:35 PM
ok so i got 4 pot xt's in the front and after about 10 mins of riding they start to sqeal like mad and i can't seem to stop it...any tips?

Bicycle Café
12-30-2006, 03:42 PM
ok so i got 4 pot xt's in the front and after about 10 mins of riding they start to sqeal like mad and i can't seem to stop it...any tips?

Couple questions- First off what type of brake pads are you running in those XTs? Are they a Shimano resin or a metallic pad? Or are they aftermarket?
Then what kind of riding are you doing? Primarily downhill or more XC?
Does the terrain being more wet or more dusty have any effect on the noise?

knowles
12-30-2006, 04:03 PM
im running ebs pads all dh/fr shore use....they tend to squeal whether it's dry or wet

Bicycle Café
12-30-2006, 04:08 PM
im running ebs pads all dh/fr shore use....they tend to squeal whether it's dry or wet
EBC offer three compounds, green or red or gold. Do you know which you are using currently?

knowles
12-30-2006, 04:09 PM
gold

Bicycle Café
12-30-2006, 04:16 PM
gold

This may be your issue. Here is the description right off the EBC site (http://www.ebcbrakes.com/MountainBike.html#).

These super high friction sintered bronze "Gold" pads set new standards in disc brake stopping power combined with maximum lifetime in all conditions. Nothing lasts longer. These pads also work great in mud, water, sand etc. If you have a premature wear problem with standard pads, switch to Gold - problem solved. Not suitable for downhill race use.

These pads and their intended use could be contributing to your noise issue. Once you wear them out try a pair of Shimano metallic XT pads, they have the best wear and preformance here in Kamloops for our fast dry conditions.

knowles
12-30-2006, 04:18 PM
that would work out great seeing as how im moving up that way in a month...thanks alot

K_Mitchell
01-02-2007, 02:46 PM
i want to do an oil change on my 2005 66vf, nothing on the marz website, can you walk me through it? thanks!!:rocker:

Bicycle Café
01-02-2007, 03:44 PM
i want to do an oil change on my 2005 66vf, nothing on the marz website, can you walk me through it? thanks!!:rocker:

On the Marzocchi website it states that oil changes should only be done by authorized Marzocchi service centers. This doesn't mean it is too difficult to do at home but means that it opens up to a world of liabilty to walk you through it online. If you have a more specific question about a procedure, an oil level or something like that, I'll gladly tell you the answer, but I can't tell you how to do it step by step.

Here is the Marzocchi website manual to your fork (http://www.marzocchi.com/admin/download.asp?IDFolder=126&LN=UK&Sito=mtb&Campo=ManualeInglese&IDOggetto=8369)

Fat Whacker
01-11-2007, 10:08 AM
With the cold weather hitting Kamloops and for the first time since owning the bikes they are stored outside :eek: Should I be worried about hydro lines freezing? Or even seals in the shock or fork? I am considering pulling them inside. Usually we don't have this cold of weather and they are alright, but with the mercury falling I am gettign a little worried. Any help would be great. Thanks guys!!!

Ed von Schleck
01-11-2007, 10:24 AM
i want to do an oil change on my 2005 66vf, nothing on the marz website, can you walk me through it? thanks!!:rocker:

Same issue, different fork... Rock Shox Pike 426 U-Turn from 2006... would appreciate some help. :)

Bicycle Café
01-11-2007, 11:35 AM
With the cold weather hitting Kamloops and for the first time since owning the bikes they are stored outside :eek: Should I be worried about hydro lines freezing? Or even seals in the shock or fork? I am considering pulling them inside. Usually we don't have this cold of weather and they are alright, but with the mercury falling I am gettign a little worried. Any help would be great. Thanks guys!!!

Hydraulic lines won't freeze. They are the same as in your car. They may get a little slower feeling but that is just the fluid thickening up a bit. Don't worry about them. As for your forks and the seals same thing applies. The seals will shrink up a bit in the dry cold here and becomes harder but the won't get wrecked sitting on your deck. The oil in the forks won't freeze either. It just thickens up. The damage that can become of this cold and riding your bike is the oil gets so thick it could possibly damage the damping system in your fork.
Have fun in the cold.

Bicycle Café
01-11-2007, 11:43 AM
Same issue, different fork... Rock Shox Pike 426 U-Turn from 2006... would appreciate some help. :)

Hey Ed von Schleck! As stated in the response above, we are more then happy to give you any technical information you need about specific questions but are unwilling to take the massive liabilty of walking you step by step through something that can be as involved as an oil change. However Rockshox has provided a very indepth fork manual online here (http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/06Combo32_English.pdf). Once you get into it if you need any tips, pointers or guidance, jump online and we'll help you out!

Straw
01-13-2007, 11:44 PM
I'm rebuilding my DT Onyx 135mm disc hub. Awhile ago, I brought it to a shop to get it fixed, as the freehub was freehubbing backwards and forwards. They coudn't fix it, and gave it back to me in pieces.

I've now fixed it. Turned out the spring holding the pawls in was all bent.

Now though, I can't seem to seat the non-drive cartridge bearing in all the way. As a result, the non-drive axle end doesn't protrude enough to get my locknut on and then leave enough axle to go inside my dropout.Have you had this problem? I don't have the specific tools shown on the DT site, and have been wailing on it with a rubber mallet instead.

Is there a trick to an Onyx hub that you know about? Or am I just not pounding hard enough? I'm thinking there might be some brains to overcome the braun that doesn't seem to be working.

In the past, I've just used the old bearing to press in the new bearing (not on this hub), but there is no old bearing in this case.

I'm not sure how it came out in the first place, as I don't know what the shop did to it. I'm hesitant to bring it to a shop because 1)A previous shop bungled it up worse than it was,and 2) I like to do my own repairs and prefer to be the only person working on my bike.

Any hints?

Bicycle Café
01-14-2007, 11:51 AM
Ohhh this is a tough one without seeing it but we'll try. Now first off, are you putting in a new bearing? Is it the correct bearing?
Take everything apart and start from scratch. If it is a new bearing you are trying to put in, make sure it's going to fit first. Make sure it is a 6000 bearing.
This schematic is great on the Dt Swiss site (http://www.dtswiss.com/data/files/MAN_EN_50215101788.pdf) so following it making sure everything is where it should be.
There are only two places the bearing can hit, either it's hitting the axle or the hub body. If it's the hub body that's too shallow then your bearing is the incorrect width. If it's the axle then the take a look at the drive side to see why the spacing is off.
With the bearing removed you can inspect where the ridge on the axle relates to the bearing seat on the hub shell, that should help figure out which is the issue, the bearing or the driveside assembly.
As for tools a mallet and socket set usually do fine, just be careful not to damage the rubber seals on your bearing.

Straw
01-14-2007, 06:10 PM
Once I got a good socket involved, everything worked very well. I used a 1", and it fit nicely.

Thanks for the help!

knowles
01-16-2007, 11:13 PM
so since im moving up that way in a couple weeks ill probably make a stop in there and pick up some new tires once i get a job and get you guys to re-lace my front hub to a mag 30 if you guys carry them...what kind of tires would you recommend for kamloops? right now im running a nevegal in the front and a high roller in the back

Bicycle Café
01-17-2007, 06:01 PM
so since im moving up that way in a couple weeks ill probably make a stop in there and pick up some new tires once i get a job and get you guys to re-lace my front hub to a mag 30 if you guys carry them...what kind of tires would you recommend for kamloops? right now im running a nevegal in the front and a high roller in the back

Hey Knowles! Pumped to have you in Kamloops.
We have awesome wheel builders! We can sort out whatever you want.
Ok I know tires are personal but if you wanted to know what we choose for the conditions here it's Maxxis Minion on the front and rear. Some people are riding two fronts for better cornering and not as much stopping.
A large portion of Kamloops riders are on the Maxxis Minion program and it seems to be a great tire for our high speed sandy conditions. But feel free to experiment with some combinations that suit your style.

knowles
01-17-2007, 08:38 PM
sounds good.....ill give it a shot for sure

Bicycle Café
01-20-2007, 05:41 PM
For sure, any questions you have feel free to ask em here.
Kamloops will be an easy adjustment, it's awesome here.

TheRob
01-26-2007, 11:49 AM
Hey!

I have a '04 DJ2 on my Heckler right now. It's the 6" model taken off a Norco Torrent(I think). Anyhow, it is VERY stiff. How would one go about making it a little plusher when it comes to travel?

Thanks!

Aggy
01-26-2007, 02:36 PM
brock! ok me and scott are sitting here in the computer lab during our english class,... because were sweet. But yeah we were looking at the mongoose add in a maxim magazine, and the fork on one of the bikes was a manitou splice, but it seemed to be on backwards! Is that how your actually supposed to have them on? hahaha or are they just big **** ups? ... just curious and super bored, because english is bunk.


have a good one Brock!

Bicycle Café
01-26-2007, 05:19 PM
Hey!

I have a '04 DJ2 on my Heckler right now. It's the 6" model taken off a Norco Torrent(I think). Anyhow, it is VERY stiff. How would one go about making it a little plusher when it comes to travel?

Thanks!

Those 2004 DJs were a notoriously much too stiff for a lighter rider, even with the stock springs. Can I ask how much you weigh? So I can point you in the right direction for options.

Bicycle Café
01-26-2007, 05:22 PM
brock! ok me and scott are sitting here in the computer lab during our english class,... because were sweet. But yeah we were looking at the mongoose add in a maxim magazine, and the fork on one of the bikes was a manitou splice, but it seemed to be on backwards! Is that how your actually supposed to have them on? hahaha or are they just big **** ups? ... just curious and super bored, because english is bunk.


have a good one Brock!

We have had the photo submitted to us for review by Scottie.
Ya those forks are on backwards. Which also means the brake is on the wrong side as well. It's one of those bike builds I have only ever seen in real life at Canadian Tire!

TheRob
01-26-2007, 06:20 PM
Those 2004 DJs were a notoriously much too stiff for a lighter rider, even with the stock springs. Can I ask how much you weigh? So I can point you in the right direction for options.190lbs. On a good day. ;)

Bicycle Café
01-27-2007, 04:48 PM
190lbs. On a good day. ;)

Well with your weight your fork shouldn't be too oversprung for you in theory. Is there any possibilty the spring weight has been changed to a heavier spring? What kind of riding are you primarily doing on the fork? For lighter consumers we have modified these forks but we are dealing with riders in the 110-120 pound range.

knowles
01-28-2007, 01:31 AM
Not really a tech question but since I'm moving up there and my paps will still live on the coast I need to get one of those dakine bike bags.....if you carry dakine then could I please get a price on one.

Bicycle Café
01-28-2007, 10:10 AM
Oh course we carry Dakine! They are one of our team's biggest sponsors.
Send me an email or a PM and I'll gladly get you set up with a price.

pump
01-29-2007, 04:07 PM
dear bicycle cafe
-what kind of loctite do you usefor different parts of components?
after doing some research, i found that
blue becomes fragile when dry and is designed for big impact.
while red forms a goo like gunt, that can be broken w/ heat, and is resistant to vibration.

-My frame doesn't have a hole on the BB braket, and i've heard that water gathers in the frame. Having a chromoly frame, this worries me. What are some solutions to this w/o voiding warranty?

-What is the best brand and weight fork oil for Rockshock rocks?
-Do judy butters help on modern forks?

TheRob
01-29-2007, 04:15 PM
Well with your weight your fork shouldn't be too oversprung for you in theory. Is there any possibilty the spring weight has been changed to a heavier spring? What kind of riding are you primarily doing on the fork? For lighter consumers we have modified these forks but we are dealing with riders in the 110-120 pound range.DH/FR. I'm not sure if the internals have ever been changed. I suppose I should have it looked at and go from there.

Thanks for your help. Great idea for a thread.

Cheers!

knowles
01-29-2007, 04:29 PM
pm sent

DaveM
01-29-2007, 04:37 PM
190lbs. On a good day. ;)


Yeah, but that good day was about 4 years ago :lol:

Bicycle Café
01-29-2007, 07:33 PM
dear bicycle cafe
-what kind of loctite do you usefor different parts of components?
after doing some research, i found that
blue becomes fragile when dry and is designed for big impact.
while red forms a goo like gunt, that can be broken w/ heat, and is resistant to vibration.

-My frame doesn't have a hole on the BB braket, and i've heard that water gathers in the frame. Having a chromoly frame, this worries me. What are some solutions to this w/o voiding warranty?

-What is the best brand and weight fork oil for Rockshock rocks?
-Do judy butters help on modern forks?

Ok locktite, blue only on bike parts. Red could be used in extreme situations but we wouldn't recommend it due to it's firm locking power and that most bike parts are light weight and involve aluminum. Using heat to break it's bond works well but because of the light weight nature of bicycle components heat should be used very cautiously. Use blue but continue doing regular bolt checks as part of your routine.

I am guessing you mean a hole in the bb shell, which are mainly used for mounting cable guides. Water can get into your frame in many ways, avoid pressure washing and pulling and cleaning components after riding in extreme conditions can help preserve the life of your bb. Applying a thin layer of grease on the bb can help repel water as well. Make this a routine when cleaning and reinstalling your bb.

Rockshox oil levels and oil weights vary from model to model and from leg to leg. Here is a link (http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/service/oil_chart.pdf)to the complete oil chart with oil weights. As for oil brands Rockshox recommends a Sram product, however we choose to use Belray products in the shop. Rockshox doesn't have an issue with using non Sram oil. Make sure when using motocycle fork oil that it doesn't have any seal swelling agents in it.

Judy Butter could possibly help depending on the fork design. If you'd like to be more specific with your type of fork I can answer this question more accurately.

knowles
02-10-2007, 01:50 PM
Is it still necessary to burp '06 888's?

Bicycle Café
02-10-2007, 01:58 PM
Is it still necessary to burp '06 888's?

Because your 888s are completely sealed there is a possibility that the air pressure can change. For instance if you put the fork together at sea level and came to Kamloops the pressure inside would be greater at this point the fork should be burped.

knowles
02-10-2007, 03:18 PM
Then I have a problem because I came down from the coast and am now living here in Kamloops but one of the little bolts to take off the red adjuster at the top is stripped.....anything you guys can do about that?

Bicycle Café
02-10-2007, 03:24 PM
We are bicycle scientists. Bring it in the let's see what we can do! I am confident we can help.

knowles
02-10-2007, 03:26 PM
I might be able to bring it in today but I've already been in 2 times since yesterday so my mother probably won't be willing to drive me again so I'll get it in some time next week. What might such an operation cost?

knowles
02-10-2007, 03:47 PM
I forgot, no price questions so maybe pm me with an estimate?

cheryl@nsmb.com
02-14-2007, 03:05 PM
Pm sent.

cheryl@nsmb.com
02-23-2007, 05:37 PM
How can no one have a question? Someone must need to know something....

knowles
02-23-2007, 06:28 PM
If I bought my drivetrain from you guys a couple weeks ago and my cable has now stretched do I get a complimentary gear going over?

Bicycle Café
02-24-2007, 10:59 AM
If I bought my drivetrain from you guys a couple weeks ago and my cable has now stretched do I get a complimentary gear going over?

Absolutely, whenever we replace a cable we encourage you to bring it back and have us retension the cable after it stretches at no charge.

knowles
02-24-2007, 06:05 PM
That is a killer deal seeing as how a cable is only like $1.

streetriderc
02-26-2007, 10:29 PM
i wanted your opinion on the hayes elcaminos ive been thinking of puchasing them for quite some time but i was also wondering what other brakes that are around the same price that may work better for my type of riding i plan on using them on my hardtail for street and dirt jumping.

Bicycle Café
02-27-2007, 09:44 AM
i wanted your opinion on the hayes elcaminos ive been thinking of puchasing them for quite some time but i was also wondering what other brakes that are around the same price that may work better for my type of riding i plan on using them on my hardtail for street and dirt jumping.

I love Hayes brakes. I have riden and sold them for years. They have had some great years for the Mags and the HFX9s, but I would have to say in my honest opinion we have had nothing but trouble with the El Caminos. We have worked closely with several riders who were riding them but we were unable to work out the kinks these brakes have. I would not recommend going with the El Caminos at this time but I hope they improve in the next season or two. They had some great design ideas but quite a few quirks that make them a brake that I do not feel comfortable selling to my customers.
The Hayes Mags are still a great staple but Avid brakes are definately taking a chunk out of the market. I am currently riding the new Avid Code brake which would be the competition for the El Camino. So far so good on these brakes but if you want some tried and true brakes the Avid Juicy series is very good, the 7s or 5s depending on your price point.

trout
02-27-2007, 10:26 AM
Absolutely, whenever we replace a cable we encourage you to bring it back and have us retension the cable after it stretches at no charge.

How can a steel cable stretch? =/

Bicycle Café
02-27-2007, 11:52 AM
How can a steel cable stretch? =/

Because the cables are braided not a solid piece of steel. Cables come "pre stretched" but once installed on a bike always need some adjustment after a few rides. Depending on the material some will stretch more then others, cheaper cables are constructed from galvanized steel compared to stainless steel in more expensive ones.
Cable stretch is always anticipated with new cables which is why your first tuneup on a new bike is very important.

Ozibatla
02-27-2007, 12:17 PM
I have Q's.

My rear Daredevil freehub just crapped itself. They are giving me a newie under warranty. If you dont already know Daredevil used too thick a grease which caused the paws to stick down. On mine only one paw was working and one of the bearings disintegrated. The bike tech said he was going to use triflow on the new hub. I use triflow on my chain etc and its a great lube but is it thick enough to be used in this application for a freehub?

Bicycle Café
02-27-2007, 01:54 PM
I have Q's.

My rear Daredevil freehub just crapped itself. They are giving me a newie under warranty. If you dont already know Daredevil used too thick a grease which caused the paws to stick down. On mine only one paw was working and one of the bearings disintegrated. The bike tech said he was going to use triflow on the new hub. I use triflow on my chain etc and its a great lube but is it thick enough to be used in this application for a freehub?

Yes triflow will be good. Using a thick grease will do more harm then good, as you know already. Most manufactures recommend a thin lubricant.

For example : Some Chris King hubs are designed to use 20 weight oil and newer ones are using a special grease for lubricant.

Ozibatla
02-27-2007, 02:18 PM
Bewdy! Thanks mate.

Marcus.

Bicycle Café
03-01-2007, 11:15 AM
Ask and we shall answer.

Farmer
03-01-2007, 05:27 PM
1. I have a sram x9 rear derailleur, and when I'm in the smallest gear, it always skips. how do I fix that?

2. what's the right way to spell derailleur?

ps great thread

Bicycle Café
03-01-2007, 05:47 PM
1. I have a sram x9 rear derailleur, and when I'm in the smallest gear, it always skips. how do I fix that?

2. what's the right way to spell derailleur?

ps great thread

1. There are many possibilities of why your gears can skip. Without having it here I can offer a few suggestions and maybe one might help.
There is a possiblity your chain may have a stiff link which would present itself more so in the small gear then in others.
The limit screw could be out of adjustment.
Your B tension screw maybe backed out too far, or because it's a Sram, the B tension plate is retained by a clip which sometimes comes off and lets the derailleur float. Also this B tension plate could be cracked. At worse case senario this issue could cost $15 to fix.
Worst case scenario if you have a new chain and an old cassette, you may need to replace the cassette to match.

2. Good job. Gold star for you on the word Derailleur.

Kossinnd
03-01-2007, 08:27 PM
Sorry this isn't really a techy question, but more directed to cafe. I was wondering what the conditions etc. are for selling a used bike at your store(I've seen ads on your site but i don't know if just anyone can sell one) maybe a walk-thru type thing would help. As i may have to pay you guys a little visit in the near future. ;)

great thread!

Bicycle Café
03-01-2007, 10:35 PM
Sorry this isn't really a techy question, but more directed to cafe. I was wondering what the conditions etc. are for selling a used bike at your store(I've seen ads on your site but i don't know if just anyone can sell one) maybe a walk-thru type thing would help. As i may have to pay you guys a little visit in the near future. ;)

great thread!

Your question is valid and a good one. We do take on bikes to sell on consignment. We assess the bike in question for condition before we accept it and then must decide on a reasonable price. Once the price and condition is established we will take your bike in the store to sell. We charge a percentage to sell a bike off the asking price.
Feel free to email the shop or bring your bike down for us to inspect and we can make arrangements at that time.

streetriderc
03-02-2007, 10:56 PM
i have a 2005 blackspire ns-1 chainguide and my chain rubs on the inner plate i was wondering if you know how to adjust it

Bicycle Café
03-03-2007, 11:04 AM
i have a 2005 blackspire ns-1 chainguide and my chain rubs on the inner plate i was wondering if you know how to adjust it

Have you tried to adjust the bolts on the back side of the chainguide using shims. There should be chainring spacers on the bolts which can be moved to space the inner plate correctly.

streetriderc
03-06-2007, 10:49 PM
i was wondering if i am able to off set my hub its a 2005 shimano xt hub its currently on my 2005 specialized sx (supercorss not trail) and im am going to need it to be offset to fit on the frame im getting which is a 2006 demo 8.

Edit: and thanks for telling me how to adjust my chain guide it works perfect now

G-spot
03-07-2007, 07:24 AM
I need to know if hydrualic brake pads that get mineral oil on them can still be used?Had spilled some Magura blue blood on a set of pads waiting to install then,when they got spilled on.

Bicycle Café
03-07-2007, 01:26 PM
i was wondering if i am able to off set my hub its a 2005 shimano xt hub its currently on my 2005 specialized sx (supercorss not trail) and im am going to need it to be offset to fit on the frame im getting which is a 2006 demo 8.

Edit: and thanks for telling me how to adjust my chain guide it works perfect now

You will just need to get a solid bolt on style axle to put in your Xt hub. Then once this is done you will need to redish the wheel in the frame.

Glad to hear your chain guide is working!

Bicycle Café
03-07-2007, 01:29 PM
I need to know if hydrualic brake pads that get mineral oil on them can still be used?Had spilled some Magura blue blood on a set of pads waiting to install then,when they got spilled on.

Yes, you may still be able to salvage them by letting them soak in rubbing alcohol. Then let them dry out. The mineral oil should come to the surface depending on the level of contamination. No promises but it's worth a shot!

G-spot
03-08-2007, 05:22 AM
Thanks for the tip will try this weekend and let you know how it turns out.

Bicycle Café
03-12-2007, 12:43 PM
Hope it went well!

streetriderc
03-23-2007, 12:48 AM
Hi, ive been noticing more and more remaining oils on my 2005 boxxer world cups stantions, friends have told me that after intense riding down rough bumpy dh trails its normal for it to happen, but it seems a little off to me. is there a possibility of my seals needing to be replaced. there hasent been any diffrence in feel or reaction of the fork , which is usually the sign of a shot seal so i have thot nothing of it but , id rather try to clearify this without taking a drive to a shop if possible.

G-spot
03-23-2007, 06:07 AM
Thanks to Cafe for tip on the pads It work just fine and was able to save the pads and use them!

Bicycle Café
03-23-2007, 02:57 PM
Hi, ive been noticing more and more remaining oils on my 2005 boxxer world cups stantions, friends have told me that after intense riding down rough bumpy dh trails its normal for it to happen, but it seems a little off to me. is there a possibility of my seals needing to be replaced. there hasent been any diffrence in feel or reaction of the fork , which is usually the sign of a shot seal so i have thot nothing of it but , id rather try to clearify this without taking a drive to a shop if possible.

If your forks appear to be losing more and more oil each ride it sounds like your seals are blown. Forks will weep a small amount of oil under heavy use but usually once a fork is leaking more substantial amounts of oil you know you got a problem. Boxxers used to be notorious for leaking seals but have redesigned their lowers in the last few years to be way better.

littlemountainmike
03-23-2007, 04:21 PM
Why is Steve T so good?

The Ultimate Hack
03-23-2007, 08:08 PM
I'm running an xt 8 speed rear der that constantly ghosts and the only way it will change gears is if I slam my bike into the ground. What the hells wrong with it? Does it just need a simple tune?

Thanks for your time.

Kossinnd
03-23-2007, 08:35 PM
I recently bought a Coiler from you guys:) but I noticed about halfway down the seat tube, there is a fairly large whole, with threads. It seems that a large screw should be there or have been there. I don't know why it is there, and was wondering why. Is it bad if water/anything gets in there? because i don't want it to. Should i temporarily plug it or just forget about it? thanks, sorry for the mass of questions

~mike*bodnaruk~
03-23-2007, 09:02 PM
I have a 05 kona shred. The chain kept falling off the getting mangled in the front derailer. I want to put a simple inner bashguard on to keep the chain in place better, but the chainstay would be in the way , so theres no room for an inner bashguard. Is there a Bottom bracket spacer type thing that i could put on to give clearance for an inner guard?

Bicycle Café
03-24-2007, 02:39 PM
I'm running an xt 8 speed rear der that constantly ghosts and the only way it will change gears is if I slam my bike into the ground. What the hells wrong with it? Does it just need a simple tune?

Thanks for your time.

Shifting issues can be caused from your cable housing, inner cable tension, derailler issues like sloppy bushings or lack of spring tension, derailler hanger allignment.....if you can give me a little more info on when it's ghost shifting? Is it under load? How are your cables for wear? Is your hanger straight? Is there a bent link or twist in your chain? Have you recently changed your chain but not your cassette?.....Let us know and we will direct you further.
Thanks.

Bicycle Café
03-24-2007, 02:53 PM
I recently bought a Coiler from you guys:) but I noticed about halfway down the seat tube, there is a fairly large whole, with threads. It seems that a large screw should be there or have been there. I don't know why it is there, and was wondering why. Is it bad if water/anything gets in there? because i don't want it to. Should i temporarily plug it or just forget about it? thanks, sorry for the mass of questions

The hole in the seat tube is for a floating brake upgrade. It is not a concern, no bolt is missing. If you tend to ride in wet conditions feel free to stick a plug in it. Something like a plastic brake boss plug should fit.

Bicycle Café
03-24-2007, 02:57 PM
I have a 05 kona shred. The chain kept falling off the getting mangled in the front derailer. I want to put a simple inner bashguard on to keep the chain in place better, but the chainstay would be in the way , so theres no room for an inner bashguard. Is there a Bottom bracket spacer type thing that i could put on to give clearance for an inner guard?

I would recommend using a chain guide system if you tend to do a lot of riding which causes your chain to jump off to the inside. There are some very good value priced chain guides on the market now.
An inner bash guard doesn't fit on your bike as you know, so you would need very long bottom bracket to accomidate the inner plate, but then you would have a really terrible chain line.

BNoel
03-25-2007, 02:54 PM
Is there a way to convert my front deemax from the standard axel to 20mm?

If so how much?

leggatt
03-25-2007, 04:45 PM
Hey,

I just put a new blackspire 32t ring on my bike and am running it with a 22t granny and black spire stinger for a chain tension device. I am having troubles with shifting from the big ring to the granny when under load, it just won't jump of the chain.

I have adjusted the lower limit screw and the H to the point that it appears to work fine when shifting the cable by pulling by hand. From this I would expect that the issue isn't a limit screw thing. If I loosen off the L screw I drop the chain.

What am I missing? I am running it on an '05 SIX whith Hussefelt cranks and BB.

Thanks in advance.

Bicycle Café
03-25-2007, 05:57 PM
Is there a way to convert my front deemax from the standard axel to 20mm?

If so how much?

Yes, you require a Mavic specific part, I will check in with you tomorrow and tell you more on price.

Bicycle Café
03-25-2007, 06:09 PM
Hey,

I just put a new blackspire 32t ring on my bike and am running it with a 22t granny and black spire stinger for a chain tension device. I am having troubles with shifting from the big ring to the granny when under load, it just won't jump of the chain.

I have adjusted the lower limit screw and the H to the point that it appears to work fine when shifting the cable by pulling by hand. From this I would expect that the issue isn't a limit screw thing. If I loosen off the L screw I drop the chain.

What am I missing? I am running it on an '05 SIX whith Hussefelt cranks and BB.

Thanks in advance.

Front derailleurs can be tricky to set up sometimes. Especially with a freeride bike where front derailleur placement and adjustabilty often take a back seat to suspension pivot placement. Loosening your L screw is the right idea but if it's dropping to the inside you may have an issue with derailleur alignment. In an ideal situation the angle of the front derailleur cage should align with your chain rings and bash guard, however in certain situations you can cheat it one way or the other. Also check to make sure your cage on the derailleur isn't bent, the only other thing is you would usually like 1-2 mm of clearance from the cage to the top of the chainring tooth. If it is too high sometimes your derailleur won't contact the chain fully but make sure when your suspension bottoms out the front derailleur isn't too low that it could contact the chainstay.
If none of these suggestions help, let us know and we'll try to help more.

K_Mitchell
03-25-2007, 07:41 PM
Yes, you require a Mavic specific part, I will check in with you tomorrow and tell you more on price.

i did it to my front deemax, it is like 20 bones for the adapters

Bicycle Café
03-26-2007, 02:36 PM
Yes, you require a Mavic specific part, I will check in with you tomorrow and tell you more on price.


I sent you a PM today!

leggatt
03-26-2007, 08:15 PM
Front derailleurs can be tricky to set up sometimes. Especially with a freeride bike where front derailleur placement and adjustabilty often take a back seat to suspension pivot placement. Loosening your L screw is the right idea but if it's dropping to the inside you may have an issue with derailleur alignment. In an ideal situation the angle of the front derailleur cage should align with your chain rings and bash guard, however in certain situations you can cheat it one way or the other. Also check to make sure your cage on the derailleur isn't bent, the only other thing is you would usually like 1-2 mm of clearance from the cage to the top of the chainring tooth. If it is too high sometimes your derailleur won't contact the chain fully but make sure when your suspension bottoms out the front derailleur isn't too low that it could contact the chainstay.
If none of these suggestions help, let us know and we'll try to help more.


Well, I tried it out again and I toed the derailleur cage towards the rear wheel so it make more solid contact and I continued to play with the limit screws. No go. I am going to replace the cable and hopefully that will fix the problem, if not I'll have to take it in.

The cage looks straight. I thought that maybe I might have to add a couple of chain links to lengthen it up, but I doubt that will solve the problem.

Bicycle Café
03-30-2007, 01:46 PM
Any luck?? Give us some more info on if the cable helped? If not we can keep narrowing it down.

K_Mitchell
03-30-2007, 02:31 PM
If i go to a Ti spring on my shock is it going to ride stiffer or softer than my steel one with the same spring rate? a differnece at all?

Bicycle Café
03-30-2007, 03:59 PM
If i go to a Ti spring on my shock is it going to ride stiffer or softer than my steel one with the same spring rate? a differnece at all?

Oh this is a tough one and kind of a buyer beware.
Theoretically they should be the same spring weight, but it isn't always the case. It seems some manufactures aren't even close on their ti spring weights. The whole first round of Manitou tu springs we saw were pretty far off. So maybe depending on what you are getting and from whom, you'd better speak to someone and make sure you are getting what you need. No one needs a ti spring that's the wrong weight sitting on their shelf.

K_Mitchell
03-30-2007, 04:16 PM
Oh this is a tough one and kind of a buyer beware.
Theoretically they should be the same spring weight, but it isn't always the case. It seems some manufactures aren't even close on their ti spring weights. The whole first round of Manitou tu springs we saw were pretty far off. So maybe depending on what you are getting and from whom, you'd better speak to someone and make sure you are getting what you need. No one needs a ti spring that's the wrong weight sitting on their shelf.

well i was going to get one from the Santa Cruz website..they have a #275 #350 and #400...right now i have the stock spring that came on my DHX 5 which is a #300 Steel spring...i dont want to go to stiff and also not so soft that i will bottom it off everything..i weigh abotu 155lbs...this is for a Heckler...
here is a pic...it seems like the spring is almost to short...the top adjustment ring is on like the last couple threads and all the others are bare as you can see...

http://photos.nsmb.com/files/2/9/5/6/7/BikesYo.jpg

the spring measures 4'' the ones on the SC webpage say they are 4.75'' in length and made for a 2.25 stroke. Would it hurt to put say a spring on it from a bullit? they are 5.75 in total length but are made for a 2.50 stroke. is the 2.50 that is printed on my spring the stroke length? i am confused, but maybe you are from this post haha

killick
03-30-2007, 05:49 PM
I don't really need a tech for this question but how much are those used syncros pedals?

knowles
03-30-2007, 07:20 PM
....and how much will new legs cost after you slip the pedals?

Bicycle Café
04-02-2007, 03:13 PM
Oh you can get metal legs! Metal legs are pimp.

BNoel
04-02-2007, 09:19 PM
Oh you can get metal legs! Metal legs are pimp.

its a risky operation, but i think its worth it.:coo:

Bicycle Café
04-08-2007, 12:47 PM
Absolutely. Save up for the pedals followed by metal legs.

streetriderc
04-13-2007, 11:00 PM
Hi,

Do you have any small or medium 2007 kona cowan ds frames, ive tryed everyshop in the lowermainland and have had a shop contact kona and they are 100% out apperently. so if you have any left at your store please pm me rite away because im willing to drive from abbotsford to kamloops to come buy one lol. pm with price if u do happen to have any.and yes im well aware that this question is one that is supposed to be avoided but your shop is closed at the moment , and im super desprite for this frame lol

thanks,
Chris Donahue

cheryl@nsmb.com
04-14-2007, 03:09 PM
Ya sorry, those bikes are super sold out. We had 2 in already and both sold by March in those sizes.

Fat Whacker
04-25-2007, 07:41 PM
Hey guys. Bought a bike for the wife from the consignor place in town for $60 bux. Got it home and realized it did not have rear disc brake mounts. But it does have two holes in the back triangle which look like you would be able to add a bracket of sorts for the mounts. I think I have seen it on some older bikes in the past but I am not sure. The bike is a 14" Giant Yukon. Don't know the year. Its orange and white. Here is a pic of the rear triangle. Can you tell me if I there is such an adaptor?

leggatt
04-25-2007, 08:37 PM
Any luck?? Give us some more info on if the cable helped? If not we can keep narrowing it down.


I swapped the cable and still had trouble getting it dialed. I spent some time on it and I think that I have it solved.

Thanks for the help.

Ken

knowles
04-26-2007, 12:29 PM
Ok so say I bought my drivetrain from you guys a couple of months ago and already used a free gear job.......can I get another complimentary gear doing?

Bicycle Café
04-26-2007, 01:06 PM
Hey guys. Bought a bike for the wife from the consignor place in town for $60 bux. Got it home and realized it did not have rear disc brake mounts. But it does have two holes in the back triangle which look like you would be able to add a bracket of sorts for the mounts. I think I have seen it on some older bikes in the past but I am not sure. The bike is a 14" Giant Yukon. Don't know the year. Its orange and white. Here is a pic of the rear triangle. Can you tell me if I there is such an adaptor?

Those holes are for fender and rack mounting not for a disc brake. Theoretically you could make some sort of an adapter to put a brake on but realistically the cost of such an upgrade and the fact the frame was never reenforced for it, I would not recommend it.

Bicycle Café
04-26-2007, 01:07 PM
I swapped the cable and still had trouble getting it dialed. I spent some time on it and I think that I have it solved.

Thanks for the help.

Ken


Wonderful, glad to hear it!

Bicycle Café
04-26-2007, 01:09 PM
Ok so say I bought my drivetrain from you guys a couple of months ago and already used a free gear job.......can I get another complimentary gear doing?

The complimentary gear adjustment is to tension the cable once it stretches out. Purchasing a drive train doesn't come with a service policy to keep your bike shifting. Regular service on cables and such things on a dh bike are just part of the expense of riding a bike.
Had you purchased your bike from us you would have lifetime tuneups!

Fat Whacker
04-26-2007, 03:19 PM
Those holes are for fender and rack mounting not for a disc brake. Theoretically you could make some sort of an adapter to put a brake on but realistically the cost of such an upgrade and the fact the frame was never reenforced for it, I would not recommend it.

I figured it wasn't for that, but I recall something in the past that you could add tabs, but I think I was thinking about this: http://www.a2zcomponents.com/ada.htm the dm-uni. But after some quick research, the adaptors are like $50US or more. So I will stick with v-brakes in the back and go disc up front!

Thanks again for the help! You guys are always on top of it!

Peter

Beers.
04-29-2007, 11:36 AM
As Mr.agassiz asked before..i spray my breaks with wd40 like anyone would do weekly to ensure good breaking and mazimum performance, but now they seem to be working less then before..this may be a no brainer but should i spray more wd40 on my breaks?..im thinking yes..but that might just be me..or should i try something more effective such as wd50.(if that is acually a thing?)

kim
04-29-2007, 09:43 PM
Ok so say I bought my drivetrain from you guys a couple of months ago and already used a free gear job.......can I get another complimentary gear doing?

Brandon you should learn to adjust your gears yourself

knowles
04-29-2007, 10:00 PM
I can but they do it faster.

kim
04-29-2007, 11:03 PM
I can but they do it faster.
It should only take you a few minutes.

Bicycle Café
04-30-2007, 06:42 PM
As Mr.agassiz asked before..i spray my breaks with wd40 like anyone would do weekly to ensure good breaking and mazimum performance, but now they seem to be working less then before..this may be a no brainer but should i spray more wd40 on my breaks?..im thinking yes..but that might just be me..or should i try something more effective such as wd50.(if that is acually a thing?)

The only things you should use on your disc rotors is brake pads, Clean Streak or some Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol).

Bicycle Café
04-30-2007, 06:42 PM
Brandon you should learn to adjust your gears yourself


Shhhh Kim! We need to fix peoples bikes!

kim
05-02-2007, 08:56 PM
[QUOTE=Bicycle Café;1674451]Shhhh Kim! We need to fix peoples bikes![/QUOTE
I notice a lot of younger riders know nothing about there bikes and how they work.I always carry enough tools and parts to keep me on the trail.I see kids on the trails with flat tires and always offer my spare tube and tools. Most of them do not know how to change a tube.Alot of my sons friends bikes are in such disrepair and are dangerous to ride.These people ether need to take there bike into a shop on a regular schedule or learn more about there bikes

knowles
05-02-2007, 10:13 PM
I notice a lot of younger riders know nothing about there bikes and how they work.I always carry enough tools and parts to keep me on the trail.I see kids on the trails with flat tires and always offer my spare tube and tools. Most of them do not know how to change a tube.Alot of my sons friends bikes are in such disrepair and are dangerous to ride.These people ether need to take there bike into a shop on a regular schedule or learn more about there bikes

Yeah I've done sooo much work on all my friends bikes here since I've been here. They have stripped bolts, need to get their bearings packed, no pads left, brakes need to be bled, forks need to be overhauled and the list goes on.

Bicycle Café
05-03-2007, 12:45 PM
[QUOTE=Bicycle Café;1674451]Shhhh Kim! We need to fix peoples bikes![/QUOTE
I notice a lot of younger riders know nothing about there bikes and how they work.I always carry enough tools and parts to keep me on the trail.I see kids on the trails with flat tires and always offer my spare tube and tools. Most of them do not know how to change a tube.Alot of my sons friends bikes are in such disrepair and are dangerous to ride.These people ether need to take there bike into a shop on a regular schedule or learn more about there bikes

Very true. I was trying to kid with you. The joking doesn't come through on the interweb!

The Ultimate Hack
05-17-2007, 12:32 PM
Would there be any reason why a lower shock bolt on an 04 Kona Stinky would bend abnormally frequently? I've replaced it about 4 times in the past two months, am I just really goddamn hack or could there be a mechanical reason? I'm not hucking or racing, just regular trail riding without drops or jumps..

bansheeair
05-17-2007, 03:46 PM
[QUOTE=Bicycle Café;1674451]Shhhh Kim! We need to fix peoples bikes![/QUOTE
I notice a lot of younger riders know nothing about there bikes and how they work.I always carry enough tools and parts to keep me on the trail.I see kids on the trails with flat tires and always offer my spare tube and tools. Most of them do not know how to change a tube.Alot of my sons friends bikes are in such disrepair and are dangerous to ride.These people ether need to take there bike into a shop on a regular schedule or learn more about there bikes

I run into a group of kids quite a bit and none of them carried tubes and such either. After giving up 4 or 5 tubes to the same kid, I decided to have a "life lesson" come into play. I have since bumped into this kid fixing more flats and he has actually thanked me for the tubes I lent him and the "life lesson" talk we had. He has since passed on the "lesson" to a couple of his friends. It's really amazing how a 45 minute hike up and down a mountain pushing a bike, will get the kids interested in knowing how to do small repairs.

Kossinnd
05-19-2007, 10:41 PM
beers question got me thinking.. My disc brakes are squeaky right now,and it's kinda bugging me. Is there any way i can stop it? ima thinking its from some foreign substance on the pads/rotor, and I want to stop the annoying noise. I know about the rubbing alchohol procedure etc, but i was just wondering if there is any alternatives to that and how to do it. I heard things about simple green but im not sure if its ok. thanks

Bicycle Café
05-20-2007, 01:38 PM
Would there be any reason why a lower shock bolt on an 04 Kona Stinky would bend abnormally frequently? I've replaced it about 4 times in the past two months, am I just really goddamn hack or could there be a mechanical reason? I'm not hucking or racing, just regular trail riding without drops or jumps..

4 times definately seems excessive. Are you replacing them with good quality bolts? A cheaper grade bolt could be the issue. We definately see bent bolts in that area from time to time but not 4 in a month!

Bicycle Café
05-20-2007, 01:39 PM
beers question got me thinking.. My disc brakes are squeaky right now,and it's kinda bugging me. Is there any way i can stop it? ima thinking its from some foreign substance on the pads/rotor, and I want to stop the annoying noise. I know about the rubbing alchohol procedure etc, but i was just wondering if there is any alternatives to that and how to do it. I heard things about simple green but im not sure if its ok. thanks

What kind of brakes are you using?

Kossinnd
05-20-2007, 09:06 PM
What kind of brakes are you using?

hayes nine, they came stock on my coiler. pads are stock too if it matters..

Bicycle Café
05-21-2007, 03:01 PM
Brake pads can definitly glaze over and buffing off the top surface with emery cloth can help a lot. Other things such as dust can cause squeeking as well. If you believe you have actually gotten a foreign substance on the pads then alcohol, clean streak or replacing your pads is the next step.

Beers.
05-30-2007, 06:10 PM
Ohh mattias, where would we be without these lovely people?

Kossinnd
05-30-2007, 09:17 PM
Ohh mattias, where would we be without these lovely people?

i wouldn't have a bike and probably be sitting in a hole. yourself?

Beers.
05-31-2007, 06:02 PM
i wouldn't have a bike and probably be sitting in a hole. yourself?

I would most likely be bicycless because of a broken fork i never got fixed, broken seat i never got fixed...and so on..i would become a nervous wreck and have to be locked up away from my bike because it would be proved hazerdous to anyone who touched it.

knowles
05-31-2007, 08:10 PM
Ok so I was just riding along and my pedals felt awkward and it turns out the spindle is bent. Don't forget I was just riding along. They are Axiom roadgap flats. They under their "lifetime warranty"?

Bicycle Café
06-01-2007, 12:27 PM
Ok so I was just riding along and my pedals felt awkward and it turns out the spindle is bent. Don't forget I was just riding along. They are Axiom roadgap flats. They under their "lifetime warranty"?

That wouldn't be our call but I would say it would be well worth while to send them in! Those pedals are very good and I have had success warrantying them in the past. Bring in the pedals and your original reciept and I we can hsip them in.

knowles
06-02-2007, 12:08 AM
What if I am a touch short on the reciept? There is a small chance that I may find it but I'm 17 and keeping receipts isn't my forte.

Bicycle Café
06-02-2007, 11:45 AM
What if I am a touch short on the reciept? There is a small chance that I may find it but I'm 17 and keeping receipts isn't my forte.
Generally speaking warranties are only granted to the original purcahser of the product. The only way to prove you are the original owner is with a receipt. I am not sure how picky Axiom is but I am guessing with a lifetime warranty they would like some paperwork with it. We can try however, it's only the cost of shipping to give it a shot.

knowles
06-02-2007, 01:58 PM
Generally speaking warranties are only granted to the original purcahser of the product. The only way to prove you are the original owner is with a receipt. I am not sure how picky Axiom is but I am guessing with a lifetime warranty they would like some paperwork with it. We can try however, it's only the cost of shipping to give it a shot.

Sounds good. I'll be in sometime next week to either get new ones or try and warranty these ones. What are my choices for new pedals?

Bicycle Café
06-02-2007, 05:39 PM
Sounds good. I'll be in sometime next week to either get new ones or try and warranty these ones. What are my choices for new pedals?


Many many many choices. Too many to list.... hundreds and millions of possibilities.

knowles
06-02-2007, 06:49 PM
Many many many choices. Too many to list.... hundreds and millions of possibilities.

Gotcha.

eball
06-05-2007, 09:41 AM
What is the recommended PSI/BAR pressure that I should run in my 07 Marz 66 RC2 ETA Fork?

I weigh about 180 pounds

thanks

Bicycle Café
06-07-2007, 12:37 PM
What is the recommended PSI/BAR pressure that I should run in my 07 Marz 66 RC2 ETA Fork?

I weigh about 180 pounds

thanks

Marzocchi recommends putting about 25 psi of pressure on the RC side. You can run as high as 40 psi but 25 is a great starting point for your weight.

eball
06-07-2007, 03:06 PM
Marzocchi recommends putting about 25 psi of pressure on the RC side. You can run as high as 40 psi but 25 is a great starting point for your weight.

Hey thanks for the input, but i am still a little confused as there instruction manual says between 0 to 15 psi for the 07 Marz 66 RC eta model which seems like nothing to me.

25 TO 40psi makes much more sense, but still leaves me somewhat confused.

Bicycle Café
06-07-2007, 06:39 PM
I was also a little confused, so I called Naz at Marzocchi Canada. He mentioned that the ETA forks only use one spring so using the air on the RC side can really help.

eball
06-08-2007, 09:27 AM
I was also a little confused, so I called Naz at Marzocchi Canada. He mentioned that the ETA forks only use one spring so using the air on the RC side can really help.

Hey Once again thanks for your help.

I had another question for you that I also posted on the Gear thread.

Q. Is it normal for a brand new Marz 66 RC2 ETA 2007 to have a knocking sound during rebound while in motion? It makes a noise as if something was loose or as if it was topping out. When I compressed down on the fork while it is standing still it feels great and there is no noise. I currently have it set at 15PSI which is the max for spring pre-loaded fork. I am wondering if my oil levels are low

Do you know where I can purchase the hex tool to open the fork to replenish the oil levels?

Shore Rydah
06-09-2007, 04:19 PM
When I pedal backwards with my bike upside down the freehub makes a slight grinding noise every revolution. Plus when I am cranking down on the pedals theres this clink'ing noise/knotchy feeling, its feels as if the freehub is skipping a tooth. The hub is stock off a 2006 giant faith and has about 25 hours on it.

Are these freehubs serviceable?

thewalrus
06-11-2007, 07:36 AM
Here's a sort of tech question... I noticed the Bike Cafe is a Giant dealer, so I'll try. On the Giant USA website the Reign X0/X1 frame sizing is listed as XS, S, M or L. The stickers that are going on the bike, at least for USA dealers, are sized in inches like you would see on a XC hardtail frame.

One dealer has an 18" Reign X1 in stock, I've talked to them on the phone, but they aren't certain if it's a M or L size frame. Is it like this?

16" = S
18" = M
21" = L

???

Bicycle Café
06-11-2007, 03:20 PM
Hey Once again thanks for your help.

I had another question for you that I also posted on the Gear thread.

Q. Is it normal for a brand new Marz 66 RC2 ETA 2007 to have a knocking sound during rebound while in motion? It makes a noise as if something was loose or as if it was topping out. When I compressed down on the fork while it is standing still it feels great and there is no noise. I currently have it set at 15PSI which is the max for spring pre-loaded fork. I am wondering if my oil levels are low

Do you know where I can purchase the hex tool to open the fork to replenish the oil levels?

I am doing the research.

The tool is the same as the Shimano lockring tool for cassettes.

Bicycle Café
06-11-2007, 03:21 PM
When I pedal backwards with my bike upside down the freehub makes a slight grinding noise every revolution. Plus when I am cranking down on the pedals theres this clink'ing noise/knotchy feeling, its feels as if the freehub is skipping a tooth. The hub is stock off a 2006 giant faith and has about 25 hours on it.

Are these freehubs serviceable?

We have seen a few issues with that particular freehub on the Faith. Take it to the dealer you purchased the bike from to assess the issue and wether or not it is a warranty issue.

Bicycle Café
06-11-2007, 03:24 PM
Here's a sort of tech question... I noticed the Bike Cafe is a Giant dealer, so I'll try. On the Giant USA website the Reign X0/X1 frame sizing is listed as XS, S, M or L. The stickers that are going on the bike, at least for USA dealers, are sized in inches like you would see on a XC hardtail frame.

One dealer has an 18" Reign X1 in stock, I've talked to them on the phone, but they aren't certain if it's a M or L size frame. Is it like this?

16" = S
18" = M
21" = L

???

In the US sizing a 18" is considered a medium. 15 is XS, 16 S, 18 M.......

See the Giant website. http://www.giant-bicycle.com/en-US/bikes/mountain/7/24512/

thewalrus
06-11-2007, 03:31 PM
Thanks... I found the geometry image. For a 6' tall guy that rides a 58cm compact geometry (Specialized) road bike with a 110 or 120mm stem, would you suggest the M or L? Looking at the specs the standover height would not be a problem for me with either the M or L. I'm wondering about reach to the bars when descending. Top tube length doesn't seem to vary much, measurement D, 23.2 vs 24.1 inches.

http://www.giant-bicycle.com/_upload_us/bikes/models/geometry//2007/GU-ReignXO07.jpg

Bicycle Café
06-11-2007, 06:45 PM
Thanks... I found the geometry image. For a 6' tall guy that rides a 58cm compact geometry (Specialized) road bike with a 110 or 120mm stem, would you suggest the M or L? Looking at the specs the standover height would not be a problem for me with either the M or L. I'm wondering about reach to the bars when descending. Top tube length doesn't seem to vary much, measurement D, 23.2 vs 24.1 inches.

http://www.giant-bicycle.com/_upload_us/bikes/models/geometry//2007/GU-ReignXO07.jpg


With a bike like the Reign X it would really depend on how you were riding it. If you were riding it for a freeride bike I would say a medium would be a good choice. If you planned to climb with it a lot, a person your height may feel a bit cramped or may not be able to get a comfortable seat height on it. A varience of almost an inch in toptube length is considered a lot actually and it would make a significant difference. You don't want to have to put a long stem on a bike to make it long enough. Increasing stem lenght too much takes away from handling on the downhill.
I would say you need to go and test ride this bike. You should be able to feel which is right for you.

Bicycle Café
06-14-2007, 02:17 PM
Hey Once again thanks for your help.

I had another question for you that I also posted on the Gear thread.

Q. Is it normal for a brand new Marz 66 RC2 ETA 2007 to have a knocking sound during rebound while in motion? It makes a noise as if something was loose or as if it was topping out. When I compressed down on the fork while it is standing still it feels great and there is no noise. I currently have it set at 15PSI which is the max for spring pre-loaded fork. I am wondering if my oil levels are low

Do you know where I can purchase the hex tool to open the fork to replenish the oil levels?

Ok I got some info! First thing, check your oil levels. If they are good, then move on to the next common possibilty. Drop your lowers out of the crown, lock the Eta out, then extend your RC2 cartridge and if you hear clicking your RC top out spring is the issue.

K_Mitchell
06-14-2007, 02:56 PM
going to be in Kamloops on the 19th and was wondering if you guys would have a 400 or a 450 lbs fox spring in stock to fit a DHX 5.0 for a glory dh
(3.25 stroke)


cant find a shop in calgary with one in stock..

Bicycle Café
06-17-2007, 02:38 PM
going to be in Kamloops on the 19th and was wondering if you guys would have a 400 or a 450 lbs fox spring in stock to fit a DHX 5.0 for a glory dh
(3.25 stroke)


cant find a shop in calgary with one in stock..

Weird no one has one. We are out as well. Is there no possibility of someone ordering one for you? Let me check into it some more tomorrow.

K_Mitchell
06-17-2007, 08:15 PM
probably could but i just wanted one for my trip out there so the bike was set up perfect for all the rippin i am going to be doing out there...be there on tuesday!!

Bicycle Café
06-20-2007, 10:36 AM
probably could but i just wanted one for my trip out there so the bike was set up perfect for all the rippin i am going to be doing out there...be there on tuesday!!


Hey K_Mitchell! If you get this, we have the spring you were looking for. I just located it in the wrong bin!

Fat Whacker
06-25-2007, 11:45 PM
Question:
Can I use a Juicy bleed kit on Codes? Is it the same?

Bicycle Café
06-26-2007, 12:41 PM
Question:
Can I use a Juicy bleed kit on Codes? Is it the same?

You sure can!

freerider2008
06-26-2007, 02:50 PM
question:
Would I be able to run singlespeed without a tentioner or a halflink chain I also have verticle dropouts

gwynn
06-26-2007, 03:46 PM
Question:

Is there an easy way to tell if my rear suspension is set-up properly? It feels soft to me, but I've always been riding hardtails before.

Fat Whacker
06-26-2007, 04:28 PM
You sure can!

Thank you very much!!! As always, you guys rule!

Bicycle Café
06-27-2007, 12:20 PM
question:
Would I be able to run singlespeed without a tentioner or a halflink chain I also have verticle dropouts

You will be unable to maintain correct tension on your chain using verticle dropouts. Using many of the great tensioning devices out on the market will do the trick though! DMR, Surly, and Axiom make good ones.

Bicycle Café
06-27-2007, 12:24 PM
Question:

Is there an easy way to tell if my rear suspension is set-up properly? It feels soft to me, but I've always been riding hardtails before.

Absolutely there are ways to check if your setup is right for you. It's a little more complicated then a simple number with so many suspension designs using different levels of sag but basically dependent on your bike there should be a percentage of sag when you are sitting on the bike. However this being said there are personal factors too. How stiff you like it, the kind of riding you are doing, the compression adjustments for high speed and low speed etc. If you give a little more info I should be able to help more. Bike, Shock, rider weight, style of riding.......

gwynn
06-28-2007, 09:04 AM
Absolutely there are ways to check if your setup is right for you. It's a little more complicated then a simple number with so many suspension designs using different levels of sag but basically dependent on your bike there should be a percentage of sag when you are sitting on the bike. However this being said there are personal factors too. How stiff you like it, the kind of riding you are doing, the compression adjustments for high speed and low speed etc. If you give a little more info I should be able to help more. Bike, Shock, rider weight, style of riding.......

Demo 7, DHX 4.0, 175lbs...

I freeride - it's fine for just riding down the trail, but it seems like it compresses too much off drops...not that I have anything to base that on. Also, a lot of the trannys here are pretty flat, so it could be that factor too.

Bicycle Café
06-29-2007, 06:13 AM
Demo 7, DHX 4.0, 175lbs...

I freeride - it's fine for just riding down the trail, but it seems like it compresses too much off drops...not that I have anything to base that on. Also, a lot of the trannys here are pretty flat, so it could be that factor too.

What spring rate is on that DHX 4?

Straw
06-29-2007, 06:45 PM
I've got a DT Onyx hub. The pawls went, so I took it apart and fixed it.

I got everything together in the proper way, I thought.

Now though, my cone-nut (or whatever it's called) on the non-drive side won't stay tight, so i always feel like I've got loose cones, even though the bearings are cartridge.

If I tighten it too much, the wheel won't spin as the bearings are too squished I guess.

Is loktight the answer? Or am I doing something wrong?

Bicycle Café
06-30-2007, 06:10 PM
I've got a DT Onyx hub. The pawls went, so I took it apart and fixed it.

I got everything together in the proper way, I thought.

Now though, my cone-nut (or whatever it's called) on the non-drive side won't stay tight, so i always feel like I've got loose cones, even though the bearings are cartridge.

If I tighten it too much, the wheel won't spin as the bearings are too squished I guess.

Is loktight the answer? Or am I doing something wrong?

No locktite is not the answer. There is a bearing which needs to be pressed into the bearing carrier under the freehub body. Make sure it is fully seated and everything should bottom out on the threads making it snug.

K-Loops Rider
06-30-2007, 07:31 PM
Do you guys still have the 15" STP1 in stock? How much is it? Can you send a pm, thanks!

Bicycle Café
07-01-2007, 06:10 PM
Do you guys still have the 15" STP1 in stock? How much is it? Can you send a pm, thanks!


We sure do. Pm sent on pricing!

gwynn
07-02-2007, 10:06 PM
What spring rate is on that DHX 4?

400

Bicycle Café
07-06-2007, 03:21 PM
400

Well that is a reasonable spring weight for your size. Are you bottoming everywhere? Just once in a while? Or are you just trying to get used to a bike with so much squish?

gwynn
07-06-2007, 05:36 PM
I think it's mostly just getting used to going from 0" of travel to 7"...it's starting to feel more natural now and drops/jumps are becoming more and more consistent. I don't think I'm bottoming out, but I haven't hit anything too big yet. Thanks for your help!

Bicycle Café
07-07-2007, 09:51 AM
Good luck Gwynn. I think you'll be fine!

Straw
07-17-2007, 11:37 PM
No locktite is not the answer. There is a bearing which needs to be pressed into the bearing carrier under the freehub body. Make sure it is fully seated and everything should bottom out on the threads making it snug.

yea...I found a rogue part rattling around in the hub shell. Looks like I forgot to tighten what DT calls the Screw Fitting for Pawl Carrier. The one that takes a 12mm hex.

Kossinnd
07-18-2007, 12:17 AM
well my Coiler's drop off 4 fork is pumped with air to the max. When i first got it, I had you guys to get it as stiff as possible, but there was a slight cling whenever i would say, J-hop, or just lift the front tire right after compressing. You guys said that there might be a possiblilty that the cling would wear away, but it hasnt, and you folks said if it didnt we could put some heavier oil in it to stiffen it up instead. So i was just wondering about much cash moneys it would cost to get some heavier oil in my fork and if it would be possible, PM please :D

thanks

Bicycle Café
07-18-2007, 10:03 AM
well my Coiler's drop off 4 fork is pumped with air to the max. When i first got it, I had you guys to get it as stiff as possible, but there was a slight cling whenever i would say, J-hop, or just lift the front tire right after compressing. You guys said that there might be a possiblilty that the cling would wear away, but it hasnt, and you folks said if it didnt we could put some heavier oil in it to stiffen it up instead. So i was just wondering about much cash moneys it would cost to get some heavier oil in my fork and if it would be possible, PM please :D

thanks

Ya too much air puts a bit of force on those forks and sometimes makes that cling noise. Heavier weight oil is a great way to run less pressure and make it better. I Pmed you with the total amount to do it.

Beers.
07-19-2007, 10:13 AM
I may sound stupid but, my vanilla r on my howler is extreeeemely soft and i can bottom it if i sit down hard enouph. is there any adjustment i can do besides getting a stiffer spring...if not, PM pricing of a new, stiffer spring. :nerd:

Bicycle Café
07-20-2007, 11:51 AM
Stiffer spring time for Luke. Bikes are equipt with springs in a general weight range for the size of bike. So being as you purchased a small sized bike, but you are a large sized rider, you may need to upgrade spring weight!
Pm sent on price.

Mountain Medic
07-21-2007, 06:12 PM
I am about to purchase a Norco Shore 17" Medium frame (with a Fox DHX3.