Calling Roadies: Road cycling purchase. Need some insight.

[Slingdros]

Ok, here's the dealio.

I've been an avid runner for many years now, however, multiple knee surgeries and other funny things/ pains creeping into my calves and shins are starting to take their toll. I'm looking for a lower impact but just as high-tempo/cardiac excersice replacement. I've started swimming and such, but I'm really getting into ripping it up on the road (there's a significant lack of xc trails around here, which is what I would rather ride).

Anyway, I'm now in the market for a new road bike. ~60cm since I'm about 6'4. Past that I'm not too sure what I want/need.

What the best advice someone can give, short of actually hoping on a bunch and gving em a try.

Am I better off starting with a carbon frame or aluminum? Will i notice a difference between 105 and Ulterga (I don't think I can afford anything in the dura-ace range).

I'm looking at a few deals at cost +~10% from the shop I used to work at. So the budget of ~2g's will get me something in the 3-3200 normal retail mark.

So whats the biggest things I should be looking at investing in performance wise? Are wheels and the frame the initial big concern, the components etc? I'm looking to maximize my money here and get the best most efficient ride for my buck. I'll eventually start doing bigger triathalons when I finish building up my endurance in a year or so, so the bike needs to be able to grow with me, which is why I'm willing to spend a little more on it now so I'll get a little more longevity out of it.

Any advice you guys have would be great!

Thanks in advance.

[Ninja]

Fit is a subjective thing. Body height, really doesn't mean much. In the road forum there is a link for a fit calculator, that works well.

10 speed 10 speed 10 speed. Ultegra if you can afford it, shifting proformance is good with both. But your really paying for the weight savings, which is key.

Frames... I think you will want at least carbon stays. Full carbon is purely price driven. If you have the cash get but don't skimp on components to get it.

That said I'm in the same boat as you I'm tall 6,5 and am actively looking for my first road bike.

[thewalrus]

What brands can you get at cost+10%?

$3200 canadian should get you a full carbon bike + the new 10-speed 105, which is quite nice. Or a mixture of the 10-speed 105 and Ultegra shifters and rear derailleur.

Here's a great road bike with a MSRP of $2200 US, it sells for about $2050 street price down in Bellingham.

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=13004

Also in your price range if you want to try aluminum, Cannondale R1000 with full Ultegra.

[nick]

:nono: noooooooooooo! don't do it! :nono:

[Slingdros]

:nono: noooooooooooo! don't do it! :nono:

What? Why not?

[Chunk]

you should actualy be able to afford a Ti frame. My Litespeed Teramo (back when i had it) was $2100 (usd) and it had full ultegra. And you cant beat the ride of a Ti bike without going the steel route which is heavier and you have to maintain it if you ride in harsh conditions.

PS- the key is "back when i had it", Hated the road thing. Too boring for me :lol:

[enduramil]

The best thing to do is keep what you want as simple as possible. When it comes to road you need to remember that you will be seated more than on a mTB. So you really need to focus on comfort. Because if it isn't comfortable you won't ride it.

Plus if you are wanting to do Tri later on you want keep some money to get things like Tri bars, SRM's, and other goodies. Maybe even an extra set of wheels.

For the record my tri bike is a 1989 Centurion Dave Scott. And I regularly crush guys on $3,000 and above bikes.

Remember the engine, meaning you matters more than how expensive the bike.

[sanrensho]

See this thread:

http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=69084

Synopsis: Find a frame that fits. Get the bike fitted to you. Component choices/frame materials/fancy wheels are secondary.

[thewalrus]

See this thread:

http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=69084

Synopsis: Find a frame that fits. Get the bike fitted to you. Component choices/frame materials/fancy wheels are secondary.

I'm curious what manufacturers he can get at cost + 10%. If it's one of the big names there should be a wide choice of frames, geometries etc. Trek would be ideal, he could choose a 2100, a 5000/5200, Madone 5.2 or one of the nicer Ultegra equipped Steel/CF hybrid Lemonds. Specialized would give the choice between an Allez Elite/Comp aluminum frame, Tarmac CF, or the more relaxed geometry Roubaix.

While we're on the topic of road, I just found this. I hope he took a 12-27 cassette...

http://www.chainreaction.com/haleakala.htm

[sanrensho]

I'm curious what manufacturers he can get at cost + 10%. If it's one of the big names there should be a wide choice of frames, geometries etc.

If he's got 2Gs to spend on his first road bike, then I would recommend shelling out for a proper bike fitting. Would save the headache of ending up with an ill-fitting frame.

[FreaK]

agreed!!!

things to note:
-campy generally lasts longer
-road brakes last forever it seems (not pads) so even the cheapest model will give you extended service. So as long as it works nicely then don't mind the model name.
-tires wear fairly quick, simply due to the miles you put on em.
-don't just buy the lightest pedals in your budget, make sure you find something that works for you ergonomically. Your poor knees wil thank you.
-don't be a fag, ride what works for you, and not what roadies (or tri-dorks for that matter) think you should!
-oh, and make sure you get the right length cranks, having previously injured knees this will really make a difference once the miles start building up.

Have fun! Blasting around the country side at 130rpm is such a great thing to do.

Personnally:
-i see no benefit to 10spd
-tubulars are great

[thewalrus]

agreed!!!

things to note:
-campy generally lasts longer
-road brakes last forever it seems (not pads) so even the cheapest model will give you extended service. So as long as it works nicely then don't mind the model name.
-tires wear fairly quick, simply due to the miles you put on em.
-don't just buy the lightest pedals in your budget, make sure you find something that works for you ergonomically. Your poor knees wil thank you.
-don't be a fag, ride what works for you, and not what roadies (or tri-dorks for that matter) think you should!
-oh, and make sure you get the right length cranks, having previously injured knees this will really make a difference once the miles start building up.

Have fun! Blasting around the country side at 130rpm is such a great thing to do.

Personnally:
-i see no benefit to 10spd
-tubulars are great

campy is great if you're buying it online from europe - very good prices for veloce and centaur stuff. not so much if you're buying it retail in canada.

Tubulars are great if you're a pro being followed around by a guy in a team car with spare bikes and wheels. I don't want to flat 45km from home and have no way of fixing it...

brakes: if you mostly ride in dry weather replace your stock pads with koolstop black ASAP. Even if you have ultegra or dura ace brakes, replace those pads. the koolstop are so much better, after a few descents to wear off the surface you'll feel a big difference.

buy extra tires from probikekit.com in europe and get them shipped to canada for free - michelin prorace2 for $34 (they're $75+ in stores)

[pete]

okay. buy mavic wheels. Shimanos are had as fuck to true. Bontrager are pieces of shit. There are about 20 broken bontrager wheels hanging up at my work.

MAVIC.

Also, Durace level stuff is not needed unless you are doing the tour.
Buy ultegra or ultegra/105 mix.

[thewalrus]

There are about 20 broken bontrager wheels hanging up at my work.


what's breaking? select, race lite, race x lite, race xxx lite?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/walrus0/bont2.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/walrus0/bontragerraceXXXliteclincherteamf4j.jpg

[Ninja]

Damn I like Bontrager parts... whats the scoop on the breakage?

[FreaK]

Ah, the anti-tubbie brigade huh?
Maybe i shouldn't have said anything.
For what it's worth my road bike is a vintage track bike with tubulars, and uhhh, no brakes.

[pete]

[QUOTE=thewalrus]what's breaking? select, race lite, race x lite, race xxx lite?

hubs and rims...

I dont think bontrager makes the spokes.

2 weeks ago there were 4 cracked hubs in our garbage. Looked like they cracked near the spoke holes. I didnt talk to people how they broke them, but I have never seen a cracked mavic hub.

We also had to make a custom tool to pull bontrager sealed bearings out of their hubs. Otherwise we'd have to send them back to trek.

[stuart@nsmb.com]

Anyway, I'm now in the market for a new road bike. ~60cm since I'm about 6'4. Past that I'm not too sure what I want/need.

Am I better off starting with a carbon frame or aluminum? Will i notice a difference between 105 and Ulterga (I don't think I can afford anything in the dura-ace range).

Definitely get a fitting. I'm 6'4" and am on a 64cm frame. I've also ridden a 61cm bike, and that was all right. If you're not used to riding road, it's hard to know how are things are supposed to feel / fit, and a fitting will give you an idea.

Don't know where you are, but if it's possible go to a shop that specializes in road bikes for a fitting.

I'm on an aluminum frame right now, and if I were buying another bike I'd go carbon - or at least carbon seat stays.

Difference between 105 and Ultegra is more in weight and finish than performance. Ultegra also gets better quality moving parts (pivots / bearings, etc.), so it will be smoother. It won't be night and day, though. The LX to XT comparison for MTB components gives you an idea.

Good luck.

[Slingdros]

-tubulars are great

Someone want to explain to me what tubulars are? Seems like slang for something I should know.

Fill me in!

[enduramil]

Someone want to explain to me what tubulars are? Seems like slang for something I should know.

Fill me in!

Tubulars are a tire system where the inner tube is sewn into a casing that has a rubber surface similar to a clincher type of tire. Clincher tires are where the tube and tire are seperate, like a MTB wheel.

Tubulars are also referred to as sew ups because the tube is sewn in. The tubular is glued to a rim that is designed for only tubulars. The rim is concave with no hooked edges for the tire itself.

The tubular must be glued to the rim so it doesn't rotate from braking and other forces.

Most guys I know use tubulars on their good wheels while using clinchers on their every day wheels.

[sanrensho]

If you decide to forego a professional fitting, do not, I repeat DO NOT base your frame choice on your height. Your inseam length will determine your seat tube length.

Use one of the online fit calculators to give you a ballpark idea of what size frame you should be riding. (See the link I provided.)

[Slingdros]

If you decide to forego a professional fitting, do not, I repeat DO NOT base your frame choice on your height. Your inseam length will determine your seat tube length.

Use one of the online fit calculators to give you a ballpark idea of what size frame you should be riding. (See the link I provided.)

Roger that, I have alreday been fitted properly for a frame by the resident road specialist that works at our shop. Sizing shouldn't be an issue here.

[old_school_n00b]

replace your stock pads with koolstop black ASAP. Even if you have ultegra or dura ace brakes, replace those pads. the koolstop are so much better, after a few descents to wear off the surface you'll feel a big difference.

I bought my first (used) road bike a couple of weeks ago and the first thing it got was a set of Jagwires and some Kool-Stop salmons all around. Even went with v-brake pads for the increased braking surface. :thepimp:

I wasn't looking for a 105tegra McChineseTarpaperBike, though, more for vintage steel, but Ed from Mighty Riders is guiding me through a proper multi-stage fitting. He took into account not only my measurements, but my muscle development from riding a low-saddled urban bike, and even my old back injury, all prior to purchase. I found something online based on the measurements he gave me, and the frame fits pretty much perfectly. My only regret is that based on the first follow-up fitting, it looks like I may have to swap out the gorgeous original Campagnolo post and 3TTT stem in order to get a little more upright.

Also, shouldn't this topic be in the road forum? Because I was about to ask for a recommendation on some big fat (28-32ish) clinchers that rule in the rain and are tough enough for long-distance commuting. :D

[sanrensho]

Sizing shouldn't be an issue here.

Now that we've got that out of the way, I would think you're major choice would be choosing a dedicated tri bike or road bike (plus clip-on aero bars).

Is this only for triathlons and training for triathlons? Do you want a more versatile ride and the option of doing road races?

What kind of terrain do you intend to ride? Aero is more important than weight if you're motoring on the flats.

Also, I would second the comment that 105 vs. Ultegra doesn't matter. One gruppo over the other will not make you significantly faster.

[Slingdros]

Is this only for triathlons and training for triathlons? Do you want a more versatile ride and the option of doing road races?

What kind of terrain do you intend to ride? Aero is more important than weight if you're motoring on the flats.


I'll be using it for pretty much everything. I'm not sure of the difference between a dedicated tri bike and a general road bike. I've seen manufactures have specific triathalon models, but I can't tell a major difference, other than the stock aerobars w/shifters.

I'm looking for something like an all-arounder. Not tri specific, but I'll probably end up getting the aerobars w/ shifters eventually out of shear-comfort on long rides.

The terrain is mostly northern Alberta and southern Ontario prairie'ish. So there are hills and such, but nothing like riding through kickinghorse pass. Mostly long rolling hills and such, but again, I don't want a bike that makes it very difficult to say go to BC and do some hill-ier/mountainous riding.

Hope that adds a little more insight.

Thanks for the help so far guys!

[sanrensho]

What brands do you have access to and which models are in your price range? I don't have an opinion on specific models, but I'm sure TheWalrus will pipe in.

Also, have you budgeted for the things that will make your training more effective? HRM, good shoes, your choice of pedal system, decent clothing, etc.?

Do you also plan to ride in crappy weather? If so, you might want to budget for a separate beater (winter weather) road bike. Or buy a less expensive training bike now, and budget for a nice race bike somewhere down the line.

[Slingdros]

I have budgeted about $500 for shoes, pedals, clothing and such. HRM I'm not sure what that is? Unless you mean a cyclo-puter, than yes, I've got one already.

As for the winter, I'm not sure that I'll be riding out in the winter, I already have an indoor training system which the road bike will be used on so I probably won't be outside. However, that being said, it didnt snow and get sgnificantly cold out here in Ontario until December, so there's only abour 3 months that I'll be training inddors.

Hope that helps a bit.

The manufactures I have access to are listed in a previous post.

[sanrensho]

HRM I'm not sure what that is? Unless you mean a cyclo-puter, than yes, I've got one already.

The manufactures I have access to are listed in a previous post.

HRM = Heart rate monitor. A must for serious training, IMO. (Next step up is a PowerTap [wattmeter] hub, but that is out of the price range for most of us.)

I don't see the post where you mention specific brands. Since it looks like you've already got your budget sorted out, then your choice should be down to some specific models in your budget range. Go ahead and list 'em up.

On the wheel end, you'll benefit from low spoke count, aero profile wheels (rims). Aero is more important the light weight for your application. You could pick up a light wheelset for climbing later on.

You can save yourself some punishment by training on 23 or 25 mm tires. Save the 20 mm tires for racing. Except for race day, don't go nuts on tire pressure unless you like flats and excessive road vibration.

[shorelocal]

Except for race day, don't go nuts on tire pressure unless you like flats and excessive road vibration.

What's a decent training pressure to run? What's a race pressure? (sorry to interupt the thread)

[shorelocal]

I'm on an aluminum frame right now, and if I were buying another bike I'd go carbon - or at least carbon seat stays.

Anyone here have a real, seat-of-the-pants, educated opinion on the effectiveness of carbon seat stays? When I was shopping for my road bike, one salesperson told me they are simply a gimmick since they are attached to the bike with aluminum and are only one side of an aluminum triangle (his reasoning). True or BS??

[sanrensho]

What's a decent training pressure to run? What's a race pressure? (sorry to interupt the thread)

Race pressure are typically higher, but you do have to take into account risk of flatting (road conditions) and weather (rain).

Since I don't race, I typically "train" at 95-100 psi. Everyone is different. It all boils down to personal preference, local road conditions, the tire you're using, and the weather that day.

Basically, there's no need to ride your road tires at the maximum rated pressure.

[thewalrus]

I'm looking for something like an all-arounder. Not tri specific, but I'll probably end up getting the aerobars w/ shifters eventually out of shear-comfort on long rides.


Clip-on aerobars or a real TT bar? I haven't seen a way to use bar-end shimano 10-speed indexed shifters and 105/Ultegra/DA type shifters together. You'd have to choose one or the other, for most purposes a regular aerobar without shifters on it will be fine. If you really need to shift while in the super-aero position you might as well buy a Cervelo P2C :)

Here's a popular type of choice, Profile Design Century aerobar:

http://www.ece.ualberta.ca/~jhu/pics/sale/ProfileAerobar.JPG


The terrain is mostly northern Alberta and southern Ontario prairie'ish. So there are hills and such, but nothing like riding through kickinghorse pass. Mostly long rolling hills and such, but again, I don't want a bike that makes it very difficult to say go to BC and do some hill-ier/mountainous riding.


Assuming you're in good shape, and have long legs at 6'4", my first suggestion would be the standard 53/39 with 177.5mm cranks and a 12-27 cassette. With a 10 speed drivetrain 12-27 doesn't have as many big gaps in it as it used to, and 39-27 should get a strong rider on a light bike up most hills in BC.

Some really big guys even prefer 180mm cranks, it depends if your personal pedaling style tends more towards mashing or spinning.

When looking at bike specs keep in mind that FSA doesn't make cranks longer than 175mm, and Campy Chorus/Record carbon doesn't come in 177.5 or 180 (Alloy only). The Ultegra FC-6600 is a nice crankset and lighter than much of the competition in the same price category.

[Kid Riemer]

Re: carbon stays and their special powers.

Yes, carbon stays do soak up some of the jarring road shock as compared to a strictly aluminum frame. Carbon stays are not as forgiving as a steel road bike though.

Good luck. Enjoy your new purchase when you make it. Don't worry about all the extra stuff at first. Just get the bike and ride it.