How To Get Started?

[rowdy01]

May sound kinda dumb.....I know, but I`m looking at getting a roady in the near future but have no idea what`s what.

I need to know what I should be looking for, parts wise, size, price etc......

When i`m in a shop, I gots to tell ya, I can`t tell much of a differrence between a $1400 bike and a $6000 bike(been on mtb`s to long I guess), and the parts all look the same. I`m looking at spending around $2000.......what should I be going for????

Thanks for any responces

[thewalrus]

May sound kinda dumb.....I know, but I`m looking at getting a roady in the near future but have no idea what`s what.

I need to know what I should be looking for, parts wise, size, price etc......

When i`m in a shop, I gots to tell ya, I can`t tell much of a differrence between a $1400 bike and a $6000 bike(been on mtb`s to long I guess), and the parts all look the same. I`m looking at spending around $2000.......what should I be going for????

Thanks for any responces

Right around 2k canadian? Take a look at the Cannondale R800, Specialized Allez Comp Double. For about 2k you'll get a quality aluminum frame with 105 components, carbon fork, carbon seatpost, and a pretty good wheelset. There's DeVinci and Norco bikes with similar frames/specs, but I'll use these two as an example:

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=13014

http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/06/CUSA/model-6RR8D.html

if you're shopping for a campy-equipped bike (at least in vancouver) you'll be paying well above $2k, so i'll leave out the campy for now.

deore = tiagra
X7 or LX = 105
X9 or XT = ultegra
X0 or XTR = dura ace

tiagra is the entry level 9-speed group with proper brake-shift levers. it's pretty close in price to deore for stuff like derailleurs, crankset, etc. 105 is a step above, still nine speed, but higher quality, lighter weight, etc. ultegra and dura ace (6600 and 7800) are really close in quality, the main difference is weight. a full dura ace component set, including crankset, is about 300g lighter than full ultegra.

complicating the 105/ultegra/dura ace comparison is the fact that each group has two separate series on the market simultaneously.

old 105 (manufactured sept. 2005 and prior) is the 5500 series, it's nine speed. my bike has 5500 on it, works great. just released a few months ago is the new 5600 series ten speed 105, it's starting to ship now on 2006 model year bikes. one of the main new features in the 10 speed 105 (found on the cannondale R800) is the hollowtech bottom bracket, instead of octalink. same idea as the external bearing XT and XTR cranksets. lighter and stiffer.

old ultegra (6500 series, manufactured prior to the 2004 model year) is nine speed, new ultegra (6600 series) is 10-speed and has a lot in common with the latest dura ace.

old dura ace (7700 series) was used on top tier pro bikes for the 2003 season and earlier, it was replaced in 2004 with the 7800 series.

Shimano has removed the 6500 and 7700 series parts from their website, but you can still find photos of it on ebay and via google for comparison purposes.

the stuff is all interchangable, for example, you'll find some bikes that have ten speed ultegra shifters and a dura ace rear derailleur, or a bike with 105 shifters and an ultegra derailleur.


2006 Allez Comp Double

http://www.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/2006/bikes/06AllezComp18_Ger_l.jpg

[Ned]

Phone the Bike Barn in Penticton. They usually have a fair stock of bikes for sale.

Another tip is to come down here to Seattle and buy one while it's still the off season. There's far more road bikes around simply by virtue of population and a big road ride scene.

I think that thug Smoke poached a pic of one of my roadies one night when I was swillin beers down at the Cove last year...
<------ oh ya, that's it.

[the flying moose]

always remember to buy what feels the most comfortable for you and dont settle until you are happy. too many times ive seen people who dont know road bikes that well get talked into buying something that they shouldnt have.

always go for a decent test ride to make sure the bike fits properly.

[sanrensho]

Get a bike that fits.

Use an online fit calculator. Measure and punch in your numbers to get a rough idea of where you should be size-wise. Take your numbers in and start test riding some bikes in your size range. Most likely you'll have to go a little smaller or larger, so you need to think about your riding style/position (aggressive for racing or relaxed for most other stuff).

Also consider your terrain and whether you will do a lot of alpine riding (gearing choice, cassette, double vs triple vs. compact). The shop should be willing to at least switch out the stem for a better fit. If the shop doesn't listen to you when you ask about this stuff, then walk out and find a new one or go in with someone who knows road stuff.

I would not get too anal about equipment choices at this point. If you really get into, then you can start upgrading or buy your dream bike. Don't forget to budget for clipless pedals, shoes (MTB clipless is fine), frame/mini pump or CO2, and, yes, spandies. Luckily, running costs for road tend to be low.

Here's a basic fit calculator:

http://www.zinncycles.com/FitIntro.aspx

[rowdy01]

Hey thanks for the responces guys.....much appreciated!

thewalrus....great info, maybe it`s just chance, buy i`ve been looking at the cannondale r800 for a little while. Guess my instincts aren`t so bad. Some of the info you supplied me with is still a little over my head, but i gots to learn i guess.

Moose.....thanks, but I only go to a few good shops around Vancouver and I trust the guys I deal with.

Sanrensho......great site...much appreciated. I`m going to use that info to help narrow my searching.

Again, thanks guy....cheers

Rod

[thewalrus]

Yeah, I forgot to mention the most important bit (which somebody has helpfully added). Fit is VERY important! It's not like freeride bikes, which might come in 3 frame sizes, small/medium/large.

I'm 6' or 5'11" on a lazy day and ride a 58cm bike. Most road bike manufacturers have a geometry schematic for each model on their websites.

For example my bike, though it has a sloping top tube, has a "virtual" top tube length of 58.5cm measured from the centre of the headtube to the centre of the seat tube at the seatpost collar. Measurement "C" in the image below. Cannondales and Treks which have horizontal top tubes should be similar (I think 58cm Treks are 58.0 long).

Your inseam length for pants is also helpful when sizing a bike. Other parts on a bike will come proportional to the size. Really small frames, like 50cm for women will have 167.5mm length cranks or 170.0. Medium sized frames will usually come with 170 or 172.5. The 56cm version of my bike I test-rode at the shop had 172.5. The 58 and 60 came with 175mm.

Don't let a shop start putting on a really short or really long stem to make a bike fit you. They might just be trying to sell old inventory if you don't appear slightly knowledageble about sizing.

For tons more info go to http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=41 and search the forum titles for "fitting" or "fit".

Here is a 2005 Trek 2100 geometry image, it's pretty typical for traditional frame shaped road bikes:

http://www2.trekbikes.com/images/bikes/geometry/304.gif

[sanrensho]

Don't let a shop start putting on a really short or really long stem to make a bike fit you. They might just be trying to sell old inventory if you don't appear slightly knowledageble about sizing.


I agree with this if you're talking about extremes. Like a <50 cm stem or 130 cm stem. However, it isn't that unusual to have to go to those extremes if you're a very short or tall rider or have unusual body proportions.

It is very common to swap stem sizes, but it is not a substitute for picking the right frame size.

[thewalrus]

I agree with this if you're talking about extremes. Like a <50 cm stem or 130 cm stem. However, it isn't that unusual to have to go to those extremes if you're a very short or tall rider or have unusual body proportions.

It is very common to swap stem sizes, but it is not a substitute for picking the right frame size.

There's a guy who commutes to an office building I work at downtown on a 64cm Cannondale CAAD7 R700. I've never seen the person who owns the bike, but judging from the frame size and saddle position of the bike, he must be huge.

[rowdy01]

Just for the record, I`m 6 foot 2 inches. I don`t have one of those freakish bodies with long arms or legs etc. Fairly normal I figure. Hopefully this will mean that I won`t have to much trouble fitting a bike to myself.

[sanrensho]

Just for the record, I`m 6 foot 2 inches. I don`t have one of those freakish bodies with long arms or legs etc. Fairly normal I figure. Hopefully this will mean that I won`t have to much trouble fitting a bike to myself.

How heavy? If you're a clydesdale, you might notice differences in stiffness from frame/fork/wheels/bb/crank/bars. Make sure you do some really hard launches to get a feel for it. OS bar (31.8 mm) might be a good idea, although they might be standard on off the shelf bikes by now.

[thewalrus]

You'll probably ride a 60 or a 62, depending on how long your torso and arms are... Try a 58cm of the same model to confirm that it's too short as well.

[sanrensho]

Who is the mod for this forum? This thread should be permanently stickied so first-time buyers read it first before asking more specific questions. I know that I've posted a lot of this info multiple times in the Gear forum.

Oh, and no undies under your spandies, kids. (Not addressed to Rowdy01 specifically, but to newbs.)

[patrolskid]

hey rowdy , there's nothing like a road bike for efficiency on pavement , but if you got an old hardtail , or access to one cheap , a set of slicks or commuter / touring tires pumped up real hard with clipless shoes and pedals will give you an opportunity to get a feel for the road . good thing to have to get you through the winter . . . .

[rowdy01]

hey rowdy , there's nothing like a road bike for efficiency on pavement , but if you got an old hardtail , or access to one cheap , a set of slicks or commuter / touring tires pumped up real hard with clipless shoes and pedals will give you an opportunity to get a feel for the road . good thing to have to get you through the winter . . . .

Unfortunetly it`s too late for that option(smacking head). Did think about it though, but when I called to see if it was still available......it wasn`t. So sad.

Sanrensho......I`m a relatively fit 210......not fat by any stretch(at least I don`t think so). So I don`t think I`ll have any problems finding a proper frame.

Thanks a bunch....everyone!

[Duncan]

Another thing to consider is the materials. Carbon and Aluminum tend to be rigid frames which give you lots of leverage but are less forgiving over long rides. Steel and Ti are flex better and can give you a more comforable ride, especially over long periods of time. Carbon forks also add some forgiveness to the ride.

Check out used road bikes. Road bikes tend to take less abuse than mountain bikes and you can sometimes find used road bikes that look to be in mint condition.

My only other advice is to buy a bike, any bike that fits you and just ride, ride, ride so you get an idea of what you like and don't like. If you want to add more variety to road riding, check out a cyclocross bike. Cyclocross rules!!!! D.

[mark@nsmb.com]

Who is the mod for this forum? This thread should be permanently stickied so first-time buyers read it first before asking more specific questions.

Done.

Where do people go for road bike reviews/opinions? My searches so far have resulted in next to nothing about our locally developed road bikes (Rocky, Norco, etc.).

[sanrensho]

Done.

Where do people go for road bike reviews/opinions? My searches so far have resulted in next to nothing about our locally developed road bikes (Rocky, Norco, etc.).

Sweet, thanks for the sticky.

There aren't many reviews of Rocky/Norco/Kona road bikes due to lack of distribution or low sales numbers in the US. The only exception being Kona's cyclocross bikes, which have always had a great reputation.

RM even dropped road bikes completely from their lineup in 2002 and 2003. (I have an RM Team Scandium frame waiting to be built up as my main road bike.)

If you have a specific question, let us know and we'll steer you in the right direction.:) For reviews of the Giant/Trek/Cannondale/Specialized variety, you can try RoadBikeReview.com.

[thebigchin]

I need to know what I should be looking for, parts wise, size, price etc......

I`m looking at spending around $2000.......what should I be going for????


There hasn't been much talk about them, but check out Marinoni. They're Canadian built (Montreal) and a custom frame with carbon fork will run you less than $1K. Then add a wheelset and grouppo and you can squeek in for under $2.5k.

La Bicicleta carries them. A custom order usually takes 6 weeks or so.

[thewalrus]

reviews of the Giant/Trek/Cannondale/Specialized variety, you can try RoadBikeReview.com.

speaking of Giant, compare a high-res photo of a Giant TCR1 Carbon to Devinci's high-end carbon frame... they come out of the SAME FACTORY in taiwan. One gets a Giant sticker, the other gets a Devinci sticker. :D :D

[NOM4D]

Check this out:
http://bikes.com/bikes/2006/solo/solo-30ac.aspx
I rode a Solo for a couple weeks; It handled great, was stiff, but the ride was not too harsh. If you want a cushier ride, they also offer a steel/carbon combo.

I am about 6'1", but have long arms and legs, and a short torso. The 57 fit real well with a 120 stem. My long arms compensated for the fairly big seat to handlebar drop.

With 10-speed Shimano, I find the greatest advantage isnt in the extra gear, but rather in the ergonomics of the shifter itself; The "waists" of the STI lever are narrower, and the bulk is moved up higher. This allows you to run the shifter further up on your hanldebar with a nice, flat transition from bar to hood. You can use the larger "top" of the shifter as a sort of aero bar as well.

[thewalrus]

That RM frame reminds me of the aluminum/carbon fibre seatstay frame used on the Felt F65 and F55:

http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_bikes/f65/
http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_bikes/larger/images/F65_BrshAly.jpg



http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_bikes/f55/
http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_bikes/larger/images/F55.jpg

[Wayne P]

speaking of Giant, compare a high-res photo of a Giant TCR1 Carbon to Devinci's high-end carbon frame... they come out of the SAME FACTORY in taiwan. One gets a Giant sticker, the other gets a Devinci sticker. :D :D

Are you sure about that? My Devinci was made in the US and painted (I think) in Canada. Are you sure it wasn't a Chicane or something?

[newgirl]

Hi there

was just looking at a lightly used Cannondale R600 - I am new to the roadie thing too and am looking for opinions..Is this a good starter bike or should I up the ante?

[sanrensho]

Hi there

was just looking at a lightly used Cannondale R600 - I am new to the roadie thing too and am looking for opinions..Is this a good starter bike or should I up the ante?

Completely depends on your goals and what you want to use the bike for.

People rarely find the perfect bike on the first try, so I'm inclined to say buy within your means. You can buy your dream bike when you know exactly what you want in a road bike.

Also, I think there's a healthy market for used entry-level road bikes (of recent vintage), so you won't lose your shirt if you decide to sell it after a season.

[Ned]

Anyone interested in a 59cm Quattro Assi AluCarbonio w/ 105 components, carbon bar, Aerohead/DA wheels, Roox road stem? 58.5cm top tube. Got enough parts to mix match or whatever.

Lots of miles, a number of races but solid. PM me if yer 6+ft tall and looking to buy a roadie.

[thewalrus]

Hi there

was just looking at a lightly used Cannondale R600 - I am new to the roadie thing too and am looking for opinions..Is this a good starter bike or should I up the ante?

depends what year of R600 it is... and if it fits you right, and what the price is. this is nearly the best time of year to buy a new road bike, if you can find a shop with some 2005s still in stock. they'll be clearing them out at near dealer cost. I saw a post on another forum last week from a guy who got a Trek 1500 (MSRP $1150 USD) for $845 including sales tax.

R600 is mostly tiagra level stuff, good entry level 9-speed drive train. See if the seller knows if it's a CAAD5 or CAAD7 frame...

[thewalrus]

Anyone interested in a 59cm Quattro Assi AluCarbonio w/ 105 components, carbon bar, Aerohead/DA wheels, Roox road stem? 58.5cm top tube. Got enough parts to mix match or whatever.

Lots of miles, a number of races but solid. PM me if yer 6+ft tall and looking to buy a roadie.

you might try posting it at the Cycling BC road for sale section:
http://www.cycling.bc.ca/index.php?id=173

[newgirl]

cool thanks - also looking at a 2004 OCR2....which I think may be the better bike...

[Ned]

Yes, the OCR is a better bike.

Walrus, I'd rather float the bike through here as means of getting someone into road riding and maybe racing. Low key bro scene instead of the hoidy self-important mirror gazing roadie crew that I just love to taunt.

[DUDEONABIKE]

im thinking of getting into road biking, my cousin in laws a pro rider, so he could sell me his bike at the end of the season :)

[CraigH]

If you want to add more variety to road riding, check out a cyclocross bike. Cyclocross rules!!!! D.

Hey Duncan, are you still rockin' the Kona for your commute?

Check out my thread asking about a cyclocross bike for commuting here:
http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=92714

[Rover]

I'm also thinking about getting into road riding to add to my mountain biking. After checking out a few shops the Scott Speedster S30 seems like a good entry level bike for me. Any comments / thoughts on this bike?

Thanks

[sanrensho]

I'm also thinking about getting into road riding to add to my mountain biking. After checking out a few shops the Scott Speedster S30 seems like a good entry level bike for me. Any comments / thoughts on this bike?

Thanks

The most important question is, does it fit you (right size)?

[BareFootMeshback]

I'm also thinking about getting into road riding to add to my mountain biking. After checking out a few shops the Scott Speedster S30 seems like a good entry level bike for me. Any comments / thoughts on this bike?

Thanks

One thing you might also want to think about is whether or not you want a full on road bike. Race bikes are super fun, they are like riding a Ferrarri but they aren't super practical. If you just want to road ride, not thinking about racing, a bike like the Brodie Ronin would be a great all around bike, you could even rip the odd gravel trail, put panniers on it and go camping etc. It also comes with disc brakes so rain and foul weather isn't such a deal.

[Rover]

If I go for a Speedster I'd be buying new from a shop that is good at fit so that shouldn't be a problem.

Barefoot, you make a good point about buying a more versatile bike. The Speedster isn't really a 'racing' bike but it is more limited than a cross style bike, especially with weather in mind. I'm torn. I don't think that my fat ass, hairy legged, baggy short wearing body would ever do a road race but want a riding experience that is different enough from just riding my old hardtail with slicks.