View Full Version : barspin setup
Ben18
09-11-2005, 12:22 AM
I am going to sey my bike up so I can barspin. I run both a front and back brake. I know that you can just run longer cables but is there a better way to do it? Any help or tips would be great.
thanks
M_Dub
09-11-2005, 12:24 AM
front brake cable through the fork tube and top cap
Ben18
09-11-2005, 12:41 AM
is that an issue with hydros? and wont the brake cable rub and worn down
M_Dub
09-11-2005, 12:57 AM
not if u do it right, just route it correctly and u'll be fine
adam45
09-11-2005, 01:43 AM
I used mechanical brakes front and rear. I had to modify the lower bracket where the rear Gyro cable begins because the head tube has a larger than normal diameter at each end. I had to also custom make the cable itself by brazing because the frame is larger than BMX. I have ordered scooter length cables but they could be up to 9 weeks away. attached is a picture. The rear brake has reasonable modulation and stopping power, the front is a pass thru the steer tube set up to a hayes mx1, the rear is an avid BB7. I intend to replace the front with avid as well. If you don't care about hydro this gives you an inexpensive full barspin setup.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y228/adam45/IM000001.jpg
M_Dub
09-11-2005, 01:46 AM
avid bb7 mechanicals tuned right can feel like hydros
SC blur
09-11-2005, 05:30 PM
If you do run mech, try to run some good quility adjustable levers. They are very nice with good levers. Ive tried avids with crappy levers, and they ruin the brake.
downstairs
09-12-2005, 01:15 AM
I used mechanical brakes front and rear. I had to modify the lower bracket where the rear Gyro cable begins because the head tube has a larger than normal diameter at each end. I had to also custom make the cable itself by brazing because the frame is larger than BMX. I have ordered scooter length cables but they could be up to 9 weeks away. attached is a picture. The rear brake has reasonable modulation and stopping power, the front is a pass thru the steer tube set up to a hayes mx1, the rear is an avid BB7. I intend to replace the front with avid as well. If you don't care about hydro this gives you an inexpensive full barspin setup.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y228/adam45/IM000001.jpg
why??
SC blur
09-12-2005, 09:31 AM
why??
elaborate. Why what... He explained everything quite nicly I thought.
VancouverIslguy
09-12-2005, 10:53 AM
why??
why not?
Rosscofat
09-12-2005, 12:00 PM
Goodridge Lines :D that helps a ton no matter how u have it setup :D
PegCityThrasher
09-12-2005, 04:27 PM
Cut your bars shorter if you need for the clearance and just run a longer rear brake cable and the front cable through the head tube. And position your seat to make pinching it with your knees easier.
why??
Let's see now. He wanted to be able to barspin without having to spin the bars back. Makes sense to me. Let's not turn this into a "MTB wants to be BMX" thread. Either post constructively or take off.
Ben18
09-12-2005, 10:38 PM
thanks
billytalented
09-15-2005, 10:43 PM
i used hydros, and barspin lots of the time...i have a decent amount of cable length to allow for it to spin it either direction with no binding...im sure over time it will deteriorate my line, but 2 years and i havent needed to replace it so i think you wil do fine
Ben18
09-15-2005, 11:01 PM
i used hydros, and barspin lots of the time...i have a decent amount of cable length to allow for it to spin it either direction with no binding...im sure over time it will deteriorate my line, but 2 years and i havent needed to replace it so i think you wil do fine
and do you run two brakes?
dudski
09-15-2005, 11:11 PM
front brake through the steer tube and a long rear hose works perfect, no matter what brakes.
billytalented
09-21-2005, 06:25 PM
and do you run two brakes?
whoops, if i do i put it though the headset (which means undoing the line and re-bleeding)
Sethimus
09-22-2005, 02:49 PM
I used mechanical brakes front and rear. I had to modify the lower bracket where the rear Gyro cable begins because the head tube has a larger than normal diameter at each end. I had to also custom make the cable itself by brazing because the frame is larger than BMX. I have ordered scooter length cables but they could be up to 9 weeks away. attached is a picture. The rear brake has reasonable modulation and stopping power, the front is a pass thru the steer tube set up to a hayes mx1, the rear is an avid BB7. I intend to replace the front with avid as well. If you don't care about hydro this gives you an inexpensive full barspin setup.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y228/adam45/IM000001.jpg
why mechanical gyros? when u can have a gyro for hydraulic disc brakes?
http://trickstuff.de/eng/prod_twister.htm
http://trickstuff.de/images/twister.jpg
XXX_er
09-22-2005, 03:20 PM
I wouldnt put a stock hydro line thru a headset ,or if you do be prepared to pony up for a goodrich line sooner than later
Sethimus
09-22-2005, 03:28 PM
its a special headset with gyro. fresh from eurobike. there is no line between.
Ben18
09-22-2005, 08:06 PM
i will have to replace the star nut to thread the brake line because it needs to be bigger for the cable to go through. Will this be a problem?
adam45
09-23-2005, 12:25 AM
i will have to replace the star nut to thread the brake line because it needs to be bigger for the cable to go through. Will this be a problem?
No problem, look at your steer tube to see if the current star nut can be pushed all the way down the tube and out of the bottom. That is remove it completely. I've used a wood dowel and a broom handle to good advantage. Do this before installing the new Star nut. It will be in the way of your new cable otherwise. If you can't push it out the bottom, go to your LBS, they'll know how.
downstairs
09-23-2005, 12:39 AM
Let's see now. He wanted to be able to barspin without having to spin the bars back. Makes sense to me. Let's not turn this into a "MTB wants to be BMX" thread. Either post constructively or take off.
cause its a joke to have a giro on a mtb, do you ride with headphones?
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