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rad rob
06-06-2005, 09:39 PM
Is there anyway to shave the top of a log off so that it is flat without using a chainsaw, that is reasonably quick? Flatten it so it is a ridable skinny that does not have a rounded top. Chainsaws are a little to loud for the area that the trail is and also, I don't have one. Thanks for the help.
-Rob




mattdh
06-06-2005, 10:53 PM
You could try chipping away the top of the log with the horizontal blade of a pulaksi. It would be slow going but it may get the job done.

Coop
06-06-2005, 11:03 PM
relief cuts w/ a bow saw and either an adze or a axe.

seand
06-07-2005, 08:59 AM
yeah, but its time consuming...

bow saw a few inches into the top of a log sideways...then make Xs connecting the sawed lines making a pattern like this all the way down the log that you want to flatten:

|X|X|X|X|X|X|X|

and so on....

once that is done...take your polaksi and start swinging away at the chunks...eventually you will have a flattened logride...now it wont be perfect flat, but its def rideable now..to make it flat, you will need some other tool to make it level....this is where you can go hardcore and use a bow saw to finish the whole thing off (makes arms dead), use a chainsaw (preferred) or you can go completely terminator and break out the sandpaper :)

have fun!

Coop
06-08-2005, 12:31 AM
if its a cedar you can usually skip the X part of the relief cut and and just bop the chunks out with a big mallet.

I'll get a close up shot of my final product for you tomorrow. It worked really quickly but i used a chainsaw to make the relief cuts. I also tried using a steel wedge and a mallet to knock the pieces off but the hammer worked the quickest.

seand
06-08-2005, 09:25 AM
even on a big cedar log we make X cuts...

we just flattened a 3 foot wide, 50 foot long logride doing exactly what I described above...but we used a chainsaw :) It took all of 45 minutes and we had a flat log....

amazing how much work relief a saw can make :)

KING-OF E-VILLE
06-08-2005, 06:53 PM
someone should make an electric (battery opperated) chainsaw, so we could do some low profile work in the woods.

Hey, that just got me thinking, doesn't craftsman or skill make a battery powered "Saws-all" recipricating saw? that might help

KHansen
06-08-2005, 08:52 PM
axe....y waste time doin the other suggested shit...polaskis are f-ing dull...

skimtb1
06-08-2005, 11:20 PM
saw across the log about every 2 cm, same width, same depth, then smash it with an axe

rad rob
06-08-2005, 11:54 PM
Thanks for the help so far, this forum is awsome!
The wood will be pine because that is pretty much all we have in tahoe.

SEKTER13
06-09-2005, 05:32 AM
Every 2 cm might be a little bit overkill for most types of wood, every 4-5 inches works for me, I dont have a chainsaw, we make the cuts with a bowsaw, and then use an axe to knock the pieces it out, they just chip off in big hunks, not perfectly flat, but pretty close. Good luck rad rob.

synchro
06-09-2005, 07:44 AM
someone should make an electric (battery opperated) chainsaw, so we could do some low profile work in the woods.

Hey, that just got me thinking, doesn't craftsman or skill make a battery powered "Saws-all" recipricating saw? that might help

ryobi makes an 18V cordless chainsaw, so does Canadian Tire and Sears

ryobi, dewalt and rigid all make 18V reciprocating saws (sawzalls)

KING-OF E-VILLE
06-09-2005, 12:10 PM
have you used one Syncro?

and how are you getting those logs soooo sweet on the corkscrew extension. they look like they have been run through a milling machine. your work is god-like

Universe
06-09-2005, 12:59 PM
have you used one Syncro?

and how are you getting those logs soooo sweet on the corkscrew extension. they look like they have been run through a milling machine. your work is god-like

There is a reason he burnt out his Craftsman saw.

Mr Ripper
06-09-2005, 06:02 PM
someone should make an electric (battery opperated) chainsaw, so we could do some low profile work in the woods.


I have used the Dewalt on Job sites, pretty sweet saw! It would all depend on the diameter of the log and the length of the blade, i don't know how long a blade you can get.

KING-OF E-VILLE
06-09-2005, 06:06 PM
Hey Ripper man

Are you still interested in moving some rocks and building some stuff on lower griffen, I could use a bit of help?

synchro
06-10-2005, 07:20 AM
have you used one Syncro?

and how are you getting those logs soooo sweet on the corkscrew extension. they look like they have been run through a milling machine. your work is god-like

thanks king.

i just did a cross cut about 2" deep every 4"-6" along the length of the saw. then instead of using an axe to pop the blocks off, i stood on top of the log with a mattock and used than to chop away instead. i sharpened the blade on the mattock a little bit (but not like an axe) to help. this way works waaay faster than an axe, but you have to be a little more careful swinging the mattock between your legs. make sure you wear steel toes boots and maybe some leg armour too ;)

i burnt the saw out milling beams for the stunts - like the ones on the zipper totter. that little saw was great, it did a shitload of work for me

KING-OF E-VILLE
06-10-2005, 10:29 AM
Which should I buy???

The batter powered Chainsaw, or the Sawzall???

I'm looking forward to picking one up ASAP.

synchro
06-10-2005, 10:50 AM
Which should I buy???

The batter powered Chainsaw, or the Sawzall???

I'm looking forward to picking one up ASAP.

the problem is that even with the 18V batteries, these tools use suck up a lot of juice so your run time is not that great. and they're not really designed for bucking up logs - more for pruning and cutting 2x4's. in the end you're probably better off going to an aborist's supply store (there's one by the maplewood pub i think) and getting an aggressive hand saw for pruning and cutting small trees. pd picked one up and he says they work fairly well. i would even get two and that way you can always have a really sharp one which will make your work a lot easier. the hand saw will make far less noise that the battery powered chainsaw or sawzall anyway, unless your whining like a little girl cause your arm is sore. :P

Dantes Inferno
06-10-2005, 02:30 PM
relief cuts every few inches and inch or two deap and nock em out with an axe. all the time spent reading this thread u coulda got a good start.

Universe
06-10-2005, 09:55 PM
i burnt the saw out milling beams for the stunts - like the ones on the zipper totter. that little saw was great, it did a shitload of work for me

New one should never wear out.

Knnn
06-20-2005, 04:12 PM
Hey Ripper man

Are you still interested in moving some rocks and building some stuff on lower Griffin, I could use a bit of help?

King, I live on Hoskins and my son and I could lend a hand. I got a family to run but could come out some evenings and weekends. PM me if you need some help.

Niggz
06-20-2005, 08:43 PM
After using an 18V Ryobi sawzall at work last summer, my guess that doing relief cuts and such you would have probabaly 30mins MAX. I haven't used battery chainsaw so I can't comment on that.

Redneck
06-21-2005, 03:19 AM
Use a very sharp 'adz' (don't know how to spell it but I own one). It should be sharp enough to shave your whiskers (unless your a chick) and be sure not to chop your foot or your shin.You don't want nasty gash. I've shaved the top of logs a few times and no saw required. You start at the low end and work to the high end , this leaves plenty of feathers for wet weather traction. Make the cut 4 to 5 inches wide .
PS; Did I mention "watch out for your toes" and look for those gashes.

diddler
06-22-2005, 12:19 AM
A bow saw will work and cut the slots every 3-4inches minimum. a polansky or pick axe works much better then an axe. Don't worry about making it super smooth and pretty as a log that is a little ruff will give you better traction when its wet.