SRAM Chains ????

[mtbguy]

Anyone out there running SRAM chain on Shimano cassette and shifters??? I have an 03 XTR rear and LX shifters and have gone through 2 SRAM PC59 chains this season....

My last one broke 3 x in 10 minutes (used for 2 rides prior)without me even coming close to cranking on it... I fixed it the first time, threw in a quick link (from 1st SRAM chain) 2nd time, and threw a sh*t fit trail side and rode the rest of the way down with no chain the 3rd time.... lol

Have checked my cassette and front rings.... all in very good shape.... I know way better than to cross load the drivetrain.... Mech at bike shop said the chain is a good balance of perfomance and durability.... but having said that they warrantied the chain and hooked me up with a new one...

Any suggestions (aside from losing weight) as to what to buy next once this 3rd SRAM chain self destructs????

I am 6'3", 230 lbs riding a 03 Big Hit Pro....:D :D :D

[Shmoe]

What model is it?
Im 200lbs and im hard on chains, the PC99 is what I use on any of my bikes that have gears.

What breaks chains most of the time is shifting up a few gears and cranking on it instantly without letting it shift first.

SRAM chains have always outlasted shimano ones for me, even the new shimano style chains. If you cannot get anything to work though, try an IRD chain. They are bombproof, but shift like shit.

[ATN]

I have had some issues with my PC-59 with shift timing. If I am cranking and shifting at the same time it might go... mostly user error you could say.

[sanrensho]

I think Schmoe has it right. Big guys who regularly break chains would probably benefit from a PC-99 chain, which is reputed to be stronger.

[TheGiggler]

i've been running PC 49/59 with Shimano gear for a couple years now and having no problems at all. i think that they are totally compatible, if you start with all brand new gear, anyways.

no matter what kind of shifting you're running, a "soft pedal" when ever you shift is gonna save a lot of wear and tear on the drivetrain, and of course prevents breaking chains...

[XXX_er]

I been running pc 68 / pc 59 chains on shimano running gear for awhile with no problems.When junior used to race he would blow Sram quik links so I would rivet his chains together but I had no probs with sram.I usually buy a couple from MEC when-ever I get to Van.

last 2 chains I used were KMC 9000 ,they seemed to work as well as sram and maybe even stretch/wear a little less than sram

Sram is introducing 3 new chains with a more bulged side plate ,I asked if they would work with Shimano and they assured me the new chains are compatible

they gave us each a chain for attending their seminar

[Zedbra]

I've had a few problems with PC 59's in the last few years as well. Went with a PC 69 and no probs. Didnt do a PC 99 cuz I replace my chain at least once a year.

[Krusty Rider]

If you look closely at the pc59 the pin is finish on 2 sides || whereas the PC69 is finished on 4 sides ( looks like a square on the end of each pin. This finishing process makes the link plate/pin interface stronger. Move up to the 69 or 99. Also, I assume your keeping your chain lubricated properly. My biggest pet peeve is people spending huge coin on their rides, then negelcting the most important part of the whole drivetrain. Then they wonder why the hell their chain broke, or it squeaks like crazy or shifts like crap.

[IFO]

PC99.... its worth every penny...

i've abused the hell out of mine all season at Whistla, and it refuses to break...

that poor chain has been twisted/ and slapped silly... no issues at all so far...

i'll be buying a new one when this one gives up the ghost for sure...

[sanrensho]

Originally posted by sanrensho
I think Schmoe has it right. Big guys who regularly break chains would probably benefit from a PC-99 chain, which is reputed to be stronger.

I am going to have to retract the above statement. SRAM's tech documentation indicates that all their 9-speed chains (except for the hollow-pin PC-99) have the same push power/tensile strength.

OTOH, the SRAM 8-speed chains increase in strength the higher up the line, but PC-48 and PC-58 are rated equal in strength (!).

[Shmoe]

Since the PC99 shifts better, there is less stress on it while shifting. This is what usually breaks chains.

[Sticky]

Have been running PC69's on both my bikes (ht and Bullit) with shimano running gear for years now. I'm 220 lbs. and haven't managed to break one yet. I used to run shimano chains and they'd be haggard in half the time.

The PC69 isn't that expensive so replacing them often is affordable.

[Nelson]

You should replace your cassete everytime you put on a new chain....They wear to eachother, so if you put a new chain on an old cassette, itll jump teeth, and snap.

Get a new cassette.

[TheGiggler]

Originally posted by Nelson
You should replace your cassete everytime you put on a new chain....They wear to eachother, so if you put a new chain on an old cassette, itll jump teeth, and snap.

Get a new cassette.

:???:

if you change your chain regularly you should be able to run at least 3 diff chains on the same cassette without noticeable peformance loss in shifting, etc.

i change mine every 2-3 months, with cheap PC 49/59... cassette and rings are good for almost a year.

if the cassette is that worn after just having a single chain run on it, then you should be replacing the chain much more often. once the chain stretches, this is in when you wear the cassette and rings super fast. change it before it stretches too much and the cassette/rings should last quite a while...

[XXX_er]

I agree with Statix ,if you change yer chain more often you can get more wear out of yer sprockets and you shouldnt have to change chain/cogset/chainwheels all at once everytime.

you can get a Park go-no-go chain checker guage for only 10$ at MEC

I have heard of people who run a chain till its half worn, pull it off and set it aside,run another chain till its shot and thro the half worn chain back on , but I'm not that organized

[Millstone]

all my sram chains have been problem free. esp. my PC7X chain which imo are the best SS/BMX chain on the market.

[switch]

Originally posted by XXX_er
I agree with Statix
Me too. I change the chain frequently (every 3 months) and have no problems.

Having clean running gear makes a huge difference. Dirty chain makes for terrible shifting.

[XXX_er]

yeah I finally broke down and got the mec cleaning device and a jug of simple green

And now I got 5 different samples of chain lube all claiming to clean yer chain and lube it almost forever.The product reps at the booths almost went into cardiac arrest when I told em I normaly use chainsaw oil

[TheGiggler]

Originally posted by switch

Having clean running gear makes a huge difference. Dirty chain makes for terrible shifting.

and must wear things faster.

i recommend a wax type lube like White Lightning. they barely pick up anything.

even in the worst of conditions the chain only needs to be cleaned once every 4-5 rides maybe, and even then it doesn't even get very dirty at all :thepimp:

[switch]

Here's how to clean the chain, which most people would say is dumb, but I find it works.

After a muddy ride, I lightly hose the bike off, then spray (hard) into the chain as I pedal backwards. That flushes out all the grime/grit from the chain. I also do the same with the chain rings and derailleur jockey wheels (those things can collect quite the layer of sludge). After this, I give the chain a good spinning to get water off, wipe it down with a rag to get as much more water off as I can, oil the chain, then give the chain good spin. I also oil the jockey wheels and moving parts on the derailleurs.

The shifting stays crips, and my chain never rusts.

[peachy-B]

switch, looks like you and i have the same cleaning procedure. must have been the same school. :D

[switch]

I clean my drivetrain frequently, but one day I was wondering why Kenji's (sanrensho's) drivetrain was always cleaner, and that's what I saw him doing. Maybe you two are from the same school. :)

[Nelson]

Originally posted by statix
:???:

if you change your chain regularly you should be able to run at least 3 diff chains on the same cassette without noticeable peformance loss in shifting, etc.

i change mine every 2-3 months, with cheap PC 49/59... cassette and rings are good for almost a year.

if the cassette is that worn after just having a single chain run on it, then you should be replacing the chain much more often. once the chain stretches, this is in when you wear the cassette and rings super fast. change it before it stretches too much and the cassette/rings should last quite a while...

Thats another way of looking at it, but replacing a chain and casette every year is cheaper than replacing a chain every 3 months....

[TheGiggler]

Originally posted by Nelson
Thats another way of looking at it, but replacing a chain and casette every year is cheaper than replacing a chain every 3 months....

cost may be less...

but as mentioned, by swapping the chain more often you will get far better shifting, for longer, out of our rings/cassette.

[sanrensho]

Originally posted by switch
I clean my drivetrain frequently, but one day I was wondering why Kenji's (sanrensho's) drivetrain was always cleaner, and that's what I saw him doing. Maybe you two are from the same school. :)

I've slightly modified my procedure, but it is somewhat dependant on using White Lightning for best results.

1. Hose off bike and chain to flush out chain/grit.
2. Spin cranks and shake bike to flush out excess water from chain (and elsewhere).
3. Spin chain through towel to remove more water.
4. Direct compressed air at chain while spinning cranks to remove any remaining water and grit.
5. Douse liberally with White Lightning, link by link. (Do not sluice!)
6. Wipe excess lube off chain plates (sides) with towel.

And no, it does not take me all day to do this.;)

[switch]

Originally posted by statix
cost may be less...

but as mentioned, by swapping the chain more often you will get far better shifting, for longer, out of our rings/cassette.
That's what I found. The chain also tends to get "gummed" up quicker, and shifting suffers.

[Nelson]

Originally posted by switch
That's what I found. The chain also tends to get "gummed" up quicker, and shifting suffers.

I Clean my chain after most rides, I Never spray the chain with water or compressed air, casue that flushes out the grease in the links and you can end up getting a stiff link, rust inside the chain where the grease was, or ecessive play. Just wipe down with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol, and relube. I find that as the cassete wears to the chain the shifting improves.....

[XXX_er]

Nelson ,thats another take on it for sure

How do you tell its time to change everything and do you get many broken chains?Isn't a new chain gona be stronger ... an old worn chain is gona be the weakest link(pun intended ) in the drive train

I would rather not direct heavy streams of water at my bike if possible

[Nelson]

Originally posted by XXX_er
Nelson ,thats another take on it for sure

How do you tell its time to change everything and do you get many broken chains?Isn't a new chain gona be stronger ... an old worn chain is gona be the weakest link(pun intended ) in the drive train

I would rather not direct heavy streams of water at my bike if possible

Ive never broken a chain, I weigh 150lbs and have raced XC, but mostly ride shore type stuff.

An easy way to tell when its time to change your chain is just to take it to your lbs and get them to check the wear with a chain wear indicator.

Theres a difference between a worn in chain, and a worn chain for sure...

Just my thoughts.

[XXX_er]

get yerself one of these only $10.50

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=670211&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=747933&bmUID=1098118226930

I was using a machinist caliper but that was hard to do

[switch]

Originally posted by Nelson
I Clean my chain after most rides, I Never spray the chain with water or compressed air, casue that flushes out the grease in the links and you can end up getting a stiff link, rust inside the chain where the grease was, or ecessive play. Just wipe down with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol, and relube. I find that as the cassete wears to the chain the shifting improves.....
That is what I used to do - wipe down the chain. But it just makes the outside of the chain look clean, and does nothing to clean the grime/grit from the inside of the chain, which is what is desired. Unless you can wipe inside the link pins and plates, then the chain isn't being properly cleaned. That's why spraying does a much better job at properly cleaning the chain.

Every once in a while I pop the chain off and let sit in degreaser. I then scrub it, flush with very hot water, blow the air out out, and then oil.

Haven't had a problem with rust, and the drivetrain is shifting smooth.

[XXX_er]

suggest you try the mec degreaser thing for 10 bucks or so as opposed to 40$ for the park,it probably would't hold up to heavy shop use but for personal use with a bit of simple green it works like a charm and you can do it on the bike instead of taking the chain off

[peachy-B]

rubbing your chain just compacts and forces the dirt into the crevices in your chain. flushing is the way to go IMO. let dry a bit and oil right away. no rust in this chain also.

[mtbguy]

Thanks for all the 411 everyone... Will ride this new PC59 until it blows up and then look to get a better quality chain... Will also work a bit harder on maintaining my drivetrain...

Stayed tuned for my next dilemma... Will the BB I just recieved from an online store work even though it's the one I ordered....


AAARRRRRGGGHHHH !!!!!!! :D :D