03 RM7 Wade Simmons & broken linkage bolts...

[VanIslandWarrior]

can anyone help me out?...I have broken over 10 rear linkage bolts (other than the first they are not the stonk peices of crap) in just over 4 months. I broke 4 on my 2 day ride at whislter alone!!! My bike shop is just ordering me new ones, but I doubt that will solve anything....Does anyone else have any problems like these??

[the flying moose]

someone correct me if im wrong but i do believe that its the shock leverage ratio putting a large amount of stress and im not sure how you can, if at all, fix it.

edit: found this.
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=2290&goto=nextoldest

[corey@nsmb.com]

Source out some stronger hardware. It won't cost you much and it will save you the head aches.

Go stainless.

[yellowdogx]

You need to get some AN or MS hardware. Look for aircaft bolts or something similar although I am guessing the metric thing may be a problem....

[corey@nsmb.com]

Originally posted by yellowdogx
You need to get some AN or MS hardware. Look for aircaft bolts or something similar although I am guessing the metric thing may be a problem....

They don't need to be metric as they do not thread into the frame.

He will need both nuts and bolts, so he is free to use whatever is available. All that needs to me done is to match up the correct thickness of the bolts.

[yellowdogx]

Originally posted by corey@nsmb.com
They don't need to be metric as they do not thread into the frame.

He will need both nuts and bolts, so he is free to use whatever is available. All that needs to me done is to match up the correct thickness of the bolts.

Sorry didn't really know how the linkage bolts work on that bike.

I made my own upper mount bolt for the shock on my vps using some steel rod I got from the neighbor (hes a machinist). Just reemed the hole to the next SAE size up and threaded the end of the rod, stuck on some nice cap nuts from home depot and I am good to go! (IMHO the vps upper shock bolt was a dumbass design, it was threaded all the way so the threads "ate" away at the frame untill play developed)

I was going to go the AN clevis bolt route but I wanted to ride so I made my own...still holding up.:cool:

EDIT

I wanted to write that I died (threaded) both ends of the rod! So it has nuts on both ends.

[corey@nsmb.com]

Originally posted by yellowdogx
(IMHO the vps upper shock bolt was a dumbass design, it was threaded all the way so the threads "ate" away at the frame untill play developed)


Agreed.

They didn't use to be like that. My 2001 Team DH came with a smooth one (there is a name for this type of bolt, bu alas, I forget it), and when I replaced it, the only other type they had was all threaded.

I explained my concern to the fellow at the shop, but it was what they were provided with.

My 03 Team NS went back to the smooth type. I guess they found it was an issue and reverted back to the good design.

[Zipster]

Originally posted by VanIslandWarrior
can anyone help me out?...I have broken over 10 rear linkage bolts (other than the first they are not the stonk peices of crap) in just over 4 months. I broke 4 on my 2 day ride at whislter alone!!! My bike shop is just ordering me new ones, but I doubt that will solve anything....Does anyone else have any problems like these??

Island Guy,

I can tell you that I ride that exact same bike and have never had a problem. I had exactly 20 days at Whistler this year and about the same on the Shore so my bike has definitely been through the shiznit.

[tazzmenn]

Corey it is called a shank! the smooth portion that is.

[yellowdogx]

Originally posted by tazzmenn
Corey it is called a shank! the smooth portion that is.

I thought it was called the bolts grip?

Edit:

Taken from a webpage on aircraft hardware:

http://www.sportair.com/articles/Aircraft%20Hardware%20-%20What%20You%20Need%20To%20Know.html

The standard bolts used in aircraft construction are AN3 through AN20. Each bolt typically has a hexagon shaped head and a shank that fits into the hole. The shank is threaded on the end and the unthreaded portion of the bolt is termed the grip. The diameter of a bolt is the width of the grip. The shank of a bolt will be either drilled to accept a cotter pin or undrilled. Another option is to purchase a bolt that has the head drilled for the purpose of accepting safety wire. Clevis bolts are manufactured with a slotted head and are used for control cable applications. The size, material, etc. of a bolt is identified by an AN number. A breakdown of a typical bolt AN number follows:

[IFO]

try to find bolts that have a higher "shear" strength rating...

contact your local hardware/bolt shop and tell them how the bolt is breaking...

im sure they'll find u a replacement bolt that is capable of surviving the load...

good luck...

[bullit_kid]

The 2003's came with bolts that were junk. Mid way through the season rocky went back to the nut and bolt design. Instead of the threaded sleeve. My 03 rm7 fr, had the sleeve design and they broke 4 months after i got the frame. I imeadiatly got the bolt kit for the old frames (rm6/rm9/pre03rm7's) and it worked flawlessy for 8 months untill i got my 05 rmx canuck which has the old style nut and bolt.