Changing Break Pads for the First Time....

[Team2K]

Any tips/suggestions? (for 03 Hayes HFX-Mags.. sorry)

Gonna attempt this tonight for the first time. (ya i know i'm a n00b)

My rear brakes are metal on metal... man Whizzla eats through 'em. Had to do my last 2 DM runs on Sat. with no rear brake :P

Another question... will a rubbing rotor eat thru break pads faster?

[GRIZZ]

if you buy actual hayes pads they will come with instruction son how to change them...and they tell you how to do eevrything

[Dean W]

Read page 9 of the manual (http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/45-14550BEnglishForWeb.pdf)

[Team2K]

Originally posted by thedude
Read page 9 of the manual (http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/45-14550BEnglishForWeb.pdf)

ya i got that already... just wondering if there are any annoying occurences, and workarounds for same

[miufahkiu]

Originally posted by TeamK2
Another question... will a rubbing rotor eat thru break pads faster?
If it's rubbing against your brake pads, then yes. Not only that, but it will also decrease your pedaling efficiency, since it will be similar to riding with your brakes applied lightly.

[IFO]

just pull the pads in towards teh center of the brake caliper and pop em out...


easy peasy...

[hooli]

make sure once you get the pads out to set the pistonns back into the calipers(10 mil wrench does it best)that way you get yer wheel back in easily...if its still tight use 3 cards(brocard,save on card)as shims to spread the pads...easy job tho...while yer at it clean your rotors with iso alcohol...you will have nice workin brakes after

[switch]

I had to replace my front pads the other day. Once finished, the rotor slightly rubbed on the pads. No way around it as the 8" rotor is and the thickness of the new pads leaves no room. But the rubbing is minimal - I can spin the wheel and there is noise but almost no drag at all. One ride and there will be no rubbing. You might run into the same thing. If you try spinning the wheel and it slows down right away because of drag, then the pistons were probably not walked back far enough into the caliper bores.

Another point. you need to push the pistong all the way back into the bore of the caliper, and both of them have to be able to stay there. If they don't, there may not be room for the rotor to fit between the new pads. On my front brake, I could not walk the pistons all the way back because the lever resevoir was full and the piston would just come back out a bit. So I had to open the bleed screw on the lever body when pushing the pistons back so that some oil could flow out. You might have to do the same thing. If you don't have a bleed kit,

[Team2K]

Ya... it was super easy... walked the pistons back with a 10mm wrench and just popped in the pads. Definately not rocket science :P

With the new pads on, my brakes are making a loud shrieking/squealing sound now.. does this go away when the pads break in, or is something 'off'?

[switch]

If they are the sintered metallic pads, they might be a bit noisy until they burnish. Ride up a hill and go down with the brake on a bit. That will help break in the pads quicker.

[Team2K]

Ya... i ended up getting Hayes ones... the "hard" ones... $10 more expensive, but hopefully worth it as i wait for my bikeroom order.....