I have figured out why my bike is a tank.

[carter]

For those that missed my previous thread, I have a 03 Bighit expert with jrTs, that tipped the scales at 47lbs.


Well minus the tires/rims the fram weighs 27lbs, which I thought was not too bad.

Front tire (26" doubletrack, formula hub, Mich Comp32) ---- 9lbs
Back tire (24" doubletack, XT hub, Intenses 909 2.5" tire ---- 11lbs


Damn, I can't believe those things weight that much, no wonder why I can't make it to the top of grouse.

Are different hubs that much lighter?, I know a MAG30 is a 1/4 pound lighter, and perhaps I'll switch back to Maxxis tires. Any other ideas.

[hampstead bandit]

my Big Hit was 46lbs my Scream is 51lbs i couldn't care less they were both real fast once you get used to the heft and your muscles grow bigger to accomodate!

my back wheel is heavy - 24" Doubletrack on Gusset Jury 12mm (600gms hub!), my front wheel is lighter - 26" singletrack on Hope Bulb and I run 2.6" Gazzolodi for freeride with Nokian DH tubes

the wheels don't feel heavy and the Scream pedals much quicker than big Hit but you know its heavy at end of day you are pumped up after a riding session

:D


DH and FR bikes are heavy for your safety, control and comfort. unless your World Cup DH racing 100's seconds counts don't bother lightening it. i like my sh*t to get down ANY hill no punctures or bent wheels

[GrimJack]

Lots of stuff to do there yet.

Lighter hubs are not the answer, however - you need to lose weight first and foremost from the outside of your wheel. You can shave some grams off the bubs and never notice the performance, whereas other items can save you a full kilo or rotating mass.

Stans NoTubes system would allow you to run without tubes, and have better flat resistance. Then I'd look for lighter rims, and understand that I might have to replace them more often if I ride hard. Lighter rubber would help as well... is that 909 really heavy?

[ATN]

Running a Michelin 2.8 tubeless on a D3.1 (renamed to something) would definately save weight on the front, my only concern is that the D3.1 is lighter than a D521... too light perhaps, especially with FORE drilling?

[carter]

Originally posted by GrimJack
Lots of stuff to do there yet.

Lighter hubs are not the answer, however - you need to lose weight first and foremost from the outside of your wheel. You can shave some grams off the bubs and never notice the performance, whereas other items can save you a full kilo or rotating mass.

Stans NoTubes system would allow you to run without tubes, and have better flat resistance. Then I'd look for lighter rims, and understand that I might have to replace them more often if I ride hard. Lighter rubber would help as well... is that 909 really heavy?

Close to 1500gms. I was surpised.

I agree that I want the bike to be reliable. But also light as well....damn catch 22.

How much lighter are D321's?

[Spud-biker]

D321's tip the scales675g ( EX729)Disc

D521 590G(EX721)

D3.1 580g(EX823)

Havent got weights for other brands to compair but D521 for the weight it is , is one hell of a rim

[corey@nsmb.com]

Sounds like an awful lot of money and part swapping to save a few pounds (and it will only be a few at best) that you likely will not even notice...

Ride your bike and enjoy it. Shaving off a pound isn't going to revolutionize your riding.

It would be a lot easier, and free, to shave a pound or two off the body than the bike (and I'm not saying you are fat, I am just providing a much easier option with the same end result...which is going to be really minimal)

[GrimJack]

$62 USD for Stans kit, and I sure noticed when I put mine on. :)

[GrimJack]

Some problems to watch out for.

Mavic doesn't make 24 inch rims that I am aware of. Neither does Michelin make tires for said rims.

I don't think Stan's can be had for 24 inch rims either.

This is the single reason why Big Hits aren't on my list of frames to consider. As fair as I am concerned, tubeless is the way of the future, and I won't consider something that restricts me to non-tubeless setups.

[carter]

Originally posted by Mulletron
Sounds like an awful lot of money and part swapping to save a few pounds (and it will only be a few at best) that you likely will not even notice...

Ride your bike and enjoy it. Shaving off a pound isn't going to revolutionize your riding.

It would be a lot easier, and free, to shave a pound or two off the body than the bike (and I'm not saying you are fat, I am just providing a much easier option with the same end result...which is going to be really minimal)


Damn, as I sit here vomiting trying to save a few pounds in my utter state of depression, once again someone has brought out my physical weaknesses............ but I digress.

Actually to get picky I'm probably 5 lbs overweight, but I've able to lose weight easily so I'm not concerned. 180lbs 5'10.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:


My big concern is when I get my Shiver my bike may cross the 50lbs barrier, I'll just try to lower it with lighter parts when they need replacing.

[Rosscofat]

my rear 26" alex supra e SS weighted 15lbs :D without tire

[OptionaL]

Originally posted by Mulletron
Sounds like an awful lot of money and part swapping to save a few pounds (and it will only be a few at best) that you likely will not even notice...

Ride your bike and enjoy it. Shaving off a pound isn't going to revolutionize your riding.

It would be a lot easier, and free, to shave a pound or two off the body than the bike (and I'm not saying you are fat, I am just providing a much easier option with the same end result...which is going to be really minimal)

I disagree.. lighter bikes are much easier to ride than heavy bikes. (save the build muscle bullshit please)

I think the perfect bike is one that will handle all the abuse you throw at it, while being as light as possible.

Eventually I'm gunna find the perfect ratio.. It'll probably cost a lot of money, but in the end I think it'll be worth it. Ride the lightest bike possible that can handle everything. This is coming from someone who likes street and dirtjumps equally as much as trails. That's why I'm trying to lighten my bike and still maintain strength. A lot of parts are overkill I've found..

[BAC5.2]

My rear wheel weighs 5.5 pounds with cassette/tire/tube/rotor... :eek:

[ATN]

Originally posted by BAC5.2
My rear wheel weighs 5.5 pounds with cassette/tire/tube/rotor... :eek:

With those NBX 2.3's?

[carter]

Originally posted by BAC5.2
My rear wheel weighs 5.5 pounds with cassette/tire/tube/rotor... :eek:

What's the setup!!!!

[Rosscofat]

no one wants my sexy 15lbs rear wheel?

[switch]

hub - 1/2 lb.
rim - 1-1/2 lb.
spokes & nipples - 1/2 lb.
tube - 1/2 lb
tire - 3 lbs.
rotor and skewer - 1 lb.

Should be around 7lbs for the front wheel. The rear will have the added weight of the cassette and rear hub, which is another pound.

That's about 15 pounds for both wheels. 20lbs seems pretty heavy.

A lighter tire/tube combo would save you a pound in the place where it would be noticed the most.

[banjopete]

I agree with optional that there is a point where more weight doesn't always translate into a better or more durable product. Take the 3pc vs conventional crank/bb setups. There is little doubt that the 3pc is heavier, and has time(BMX history) on its side as far as durability goes, but are there cranks and bb's that are just as strong made of aluminum?

I think the answer is yes, and with companies stepping up to provide good warranties for products that cost a little more, there certainly is room for this type of product. Products that emphasize toughness with reasonable weight, will last longer on the market than others that are just heavy and irresponsible to everyday riders. (witness the life of the 3.0 gazzi)

Also riders these days are looking for multi-use bikes to do all things in almost as many numbers as those lucky enough to afford different bikes for different situations.

[IFO]

list out your parts build on your frameset ???

theres no way your BIGHIT without tires/wheels should weigh 27lbs !!!

its only like around a 10lbs frame...whers the rest of the weight that makes up your stated 27lbs ???

my BIGHIT with prolly the heaviest wheels u can build (DBLWide/Intense tire/DHtube) is only 45lbs.... and i dont have super-light weight parts...

but i dont run 3-peice cromos either....:eek:

list it up lets see what we can do...

mind u it wont be cheap...:D

[carter]

I'll bring it into work tommorrow to use on our shipping scale. The frame is just a spec Bighit expert, nothing added.

[Incorrigible]

how big is your seat? they can weigh a ton. rf ns are about as light and strong as you can find, for cranks.

and as far as tubeless, i won't go back to tubes. my 3.1's needed a bit of attention throughout the race season here in rocky quebec, but they held up well overall. and they are light when matched to mich comp 16's.

nobody wants to pedal a heavy bike up grouse, no matter how good the down will be.

[carter]

Originally posted by IFO
list out your parts build on your frameset ???

theres no way your BIGHIT without tires/wheels should weigh 27lbs !!!

its only like around a 10lbs frame...whers the rest of the weight that makes up your stated 27lbs ???

my BIGHIT with prolly the heaviest wheels u can build (DBLWide/Intense tire/DHtube) is only 45lbs.... and i dont have super-light weight parts...

but i dont run 3-peice cromos either....:eek:

list it up lets see what we can do...

mind u it wont be cheap...:D


OK IFO, on the shipping scale, 46.5 lbs. Rear tire/rim/hub is 9.2 lbs. Front tire/rim/hub is 7.6lbs. Everything else is unchanged from Specialized. Except road gap pedals.

[BAC5.2]

Rear wheel build:

Hadley 108 hub with 10mm thru axle.

Hayes 8" rotor

SRAM 9.0 cassette

Sun Rhynolite XL with Brass nipples and 32 14g straight gauge black wheelsmith spokes

Bontrager 2.35 tube (which reminds me I need new tubes for my new tires...)

Nokian NBX 2.3's (650g's)

Rear wheel = 5.5 pounds

Front wheel = 5.0 pounds with axle

Same rim, rotor, tube, tire, spokes, nipples, but with 16 Spokey Dokes (multi color) and a Marzocchi 20mm hub and a Manitou Hex-Lock axle (with bolt)

[hampstead bandit]

I disagree.. lighter bikes are much easier to ride than heavy bikes. (save the build muscle bullshit please)

i woud disagree for certain types of riding like shore or stunts a heavy bike is more controllable, more stable, sits in place on skinny beams, soaks up the big drops without bouncing about, there is alot of durability in bigger tires, heavier rims, etc.

none of the alloy cranks like the RF North Shore are anything as strong as quality cromoly cranks like Profile or DMR Chieftan.

The cromoly cranks are considerably heavier, more adjustable, actually cheaper as its includes b/b and axle (unlike RF with ISIS), best of steel doesn't SNAP like alloy does, steel often gives warning of failure or at worst tends to shear slowly..

i don't trust my legs to anything but cromoly cranks for my freeride bike

my XC bike is a different story.

[BAC5.2]

I disagree about the crank issue. It's been proven that RF NS cranks are stronger than Profiles.

Where the profiles will begin to fail, the RF's will hold strong.

At the point where the Profiles will shear off (if you don't think they snap, ask a hardcore BMXer, it happens) the RF's will hold.

The RF's will fail all at once, that's true, but that point is going to be beyond what the Profile's will stand up to.

And no, on a 15 foot to semi-hack landing, a profile will not just "bend" out of the way. It'll break. There is a reason a lot of us run RF NS cranks. Lighter and just as strong as Profiles.

I have both, and the Profiles aren't worth the weight.

[Incorrigible]

i love the ns's but you always wonder if it's worth the extra weight for the chromo stuff, especially since i just sent mine in for warranty due to pedal axle strippage.

[barry]

You could spend hundreds trying to shave a few pounds off your bike, OR, you could lose weight yourself. alot easier.

[BAC5.2]

Originally posted by Barry
You could spend hundreds trying to shave a few pounds off your bike, OR, you could lose weight yourself. alot easier.

:rolleyes:

Lift a 10 pound weight. Go lose 30 pounds. Lift the same weight. Guess what. The weight still weigh's 10 pounds and still requires the same amount of energy from you to lift.

[OptionaL]

Originally posted by BAC5.2
:rolleyes:

Lift a 10 pound weight. Go lose 30 pounds. Lift the same weight. Guess what. The weight still weigh's 10 pounds and still requires the same amount of energy from you to lift.

Yeah? I didn't see how that comment was valid at all either.. Your bike will still be as heavy regardless of how heavy you are lol..

[BAC5.2]

That is exactly what I was saying....

[SDK]

I think you're missing the point - the weight that you're pedaling is bike+rider, so if the rider loses 10lbs of fat, that's 10lbs less that you have to carry.

However, this point isn't really vaild for FR/DH etc, as the bikes weight affects so much more than how easy it is to pedal uphill, a lighter bike means easier handling, better cornering, faster accelaration etc.

I'd have to agree with BAC on the RF North Shore's though, they're as strong as cromo cranks, but around a pound lighter. Also, cromo cranks are more likely to snap than a DH alloy crank, which generally bend under failure.

[crazyguy]

i dont see how you people build up these porker wheels!ROSSCO! :lol: mine is at 7
its build is:
atomlab dhr
blakc spokes from go-ride not sure on what type
hadley hub with ti cassette
xt cassette
Kujo DH 2.65 that tire is a tank about the same as an intense id say like 1450
and xc tubes

i plan to put a 3.1 and maxxis tubless when they come out that should drop the weight considerably

i already got a deemax on the way since im a dumbass and left my wheel on the bakc of the car and left then came back 15 minutes later and it waas gone so i have to use the money from selling my fork to get that, I guess no new exhaust for my goped

[corey@nsmb.com]

Originally posted by BAC5.2
:rolleyes:

Lift a 10 pound weight. Go lose 30 pounds. Lift the same weight. Guess what. The weight still weigh's 10 pounds and still requires the same amount of energy from you to lift.


...now hold that weight and continue doing so as you hike up Fromme.

When you hold a 10 pound weight and you weigh 200, your legs are hauling 210 pounds up that hill for 30 minutes or so.

If you train, dump some unnecessary baggage, and say drop to a lean but muscular 185 pounds, grab that weight again. Now hold it and climb fromme again. This time, your legs are hauling 195 pounds.

Ever wonder why the skinny 140 lb XC guys can smoke you on a climb, even if you were on the same bike as him? Their combined weight and level of fitness will prevail every time.

This isn't rocket science. The point is this: Trying to shave off a few pounds on a big bike gets expensive and tedious. Its fun to talk about, sure, but the reality is you are needing to BUILD NEW wheels on NEW hubs, with NEW tires and a tubelss system, etc. Look at the dollar figures for that, and its a pretty meaty expense...

You can do all that if ya like, or if it only a few pounds you are after, do some more fitness oriented riding and try to scrub those few pounds off your belly (I have one too, but thats ok :lol: ). Its free and easy and will accomplish the same thing in theory.

Unless you are either rich, or a professional level racer, making the changes to the bike isn't going to have a big effect on your riding.... (but the guys who do drop the big $$$ to do so will tell you the opposite in a valiant effort to justify their expenditure).

[BAC5.2]

True, but the bike still weighs 50 pounds.

When it comes to climbing or carrying the weight, then yea, I agree absolutely that you need to lose some weight and get more fit.

I thought that he was thinking you losing weight would make the bike more agile in the air and such (which would be untrue, 50 pounds is still 50 pounds to muscle around).

[ATN]

Tubeless would help take out rotating weight, so losing a pound there will feel a lot different than simply skipping a meal or two. Not to mention the increased performance once it's set up right.

The best way to get up faster would be to ride your bike more, get the muscle mass and less fat, skip the apres, and use the money you save for new wheels (which you will need if you ride a lot)

[switch]

The easiest/cheapest way to climb faster is to pump your tires up rock hard, and to get your seat post up.

[carter]

In regards to tubeless tires, have they really proved themselfs for free riding?

I guess I really haven't been following it that much, maybe its time for some education.

[Shmoe]

What about this...

Lighter wheels help with acceleration, no doubt about that.

Unless you pedal perfectly (pretty much impossible) each pedal stroke is going to be acceleration. Now, whith the lighter wheels you notice it each time you pedal. Now, you bike is easier to pedal while still reaching the same speed. Not mention its easier to throw around in the air and on the ground.

I dont see why you would buy heavy wheels unless you are destorying light ones? the price difference is marginal. Run some mavic rims, butted spokes, tubeless and michelin tires and your set...

[Shmoe]

Originally posted by carter
In regards to tubeless tires, have they really proved themselfs for free riding?

I guess I really haven't been following it that much, maybe its time for some education.

I rode ghetto tubleless with crappy canadian tire selent all of last season on my dh bike. Lost about 1 psi per week.. not a big deal. I didn't get one flat, running front at about 8-9psi and rear at about 15psi. Normally I get about 5 or so flats a season (with dh tubes) Now I get none.

[Shore Rydah]

i have two 26" doubletracks and my bike only weighs 40 pounds.

[carter]

Originally posted by Shore Rydah
i have two 26" doubletracks and my bike only weighs 40 pounds.

What bike? What tires?