IM really confused.

[bullit_kid]

Im really confused on what I want to do or be. I want to be successful at dh racing, but my set up is really not a DH setup as it is now ... jrt, rm7 (that isnt to bad, now worry here) 38 tooth chainring ...

first off the JRT has to go, its good most places, but on the dh tracks its total garbage, being blown out in panoram and rossland didnt help as well .. what should I run fork wise for DH racing, i love working on my bike as much as possible so maintenance is no issue really ...

shiver ? wc/team boxxer ? dorado ?

chainguides ... definatly mrp or evil .. 42 tooth ring .. i thought a 36 was good nope, upgrade to a 38 .. still not good enough, maxxed out on all dh tracks this year.

is there any advantage to running the smaller levers for my hayes ... like the dhf shorties from GRC or razor rock etc etc .. ?

i dont see any point to upgrading my brakes to a set of xt's as im fine with them ..

drivetrain .. straight xt through sans the cranks and chain no reason for change here either

seat, im gonna run my low profile xc seat as my sdg freestlye got in the way of cornering a lot.

2.5 mobster up front, 2.5 high roller on back
i run a shimano xt hub .. is there any reason to upgrade to a hadley, chris king or hugi/hayes hub ?

i didnt do that bad on the rm7/jrt combo 5 2nd places including 1 at nationals, 7 podiums overall, now wins .. lost by .02 of a second and . 03 of a second

confused on the fork, and hub ?

any other opinions

[FreaK]

-888?
-ultegra?
-what's your smallest cog? make sure you've got something with an 11t.
-mofos are sick, haven't ridden the new gen of tiogas but they have a good rep so far.
-anyone who takes corners at speed will tell you that control of your speed is key, so the best brakes you can get will get you around that corner quicker.

if you're so damn close, why don't you just practice?

[bullit_kid]

Originally posted by FreaK
-888?
-ultegra?
-what's your smallest cog? make sure you've got something with an 11t.
-mofos are sick, haven't ridden the new gen of tiogas but they have a good rep so far.
-anyone who takes corners at speed will tell you that control of your speed is key, so the best brakes you can get will get you around that corner quicker.

if you're so damn close, why don't you just practice?

smallest i ahve on my cog is a 12

[IFO]

boXXer if ur looking for a less expensive way to upgrade your fork...

or a 888 might be nice if u can aford it...

get into a 42tooth ring...that'll give you lots of speed for more open DH tracks....

brake levers wont put u onto a podium... but a set of XT's just might....:P

good luck next season...Bullit.....:thepimp:

for tires u might wanna consider running a narrower/lighter tire/rim combo for races where u can get away with it... naturally weather and trail conditions dictate what u need to run....

having a (light/weight)race specific set of rims/tires would be nice to have....

[Zaskar]

dude i figure just upgrade the fork. i would get a world cup boxxer if it was up to me. nice and light, if you get it tuned well it's a wicked fork. if you don't it's er....rock shox.

as for drivetrain and all that. whatever. i just bumped up to a 42t myself and loving it. it's a bit of a bitch for fromme but other than that it's nice. not alot of dead pedalling.

i say the fork is all you really need dude and i mean, you're a fast rider. i'd say swapping to a nicer fork would make an improvment in your times.

but hey...im no racer :) i'm thinking next year i'll giv'er though. i need two things. practice and money. then i'm good to go hahaha

[switch]

Ross, for the love of the board, please change your avatar.

[m33p]

Shiver/dorado.
hubs make a tiny bit of difference, that you wouldn't notice anyway.
42 tooth for sure. That's why im so fast.

[Rusty]

My fork of choice would be a 888 or Dorado.

Running the GRC Moto Levers (the long ones) would reduce forearm pump.

I would say DT Onyx hubs if you are on a budget. These are the same as the Hayes Elite hubs. They would be good as a race hub but not as a big drop hub. Sealed bearing usually roll faster than the unsealed ones, well the good ones anyhow.

As IFO already mentioned lightening the wheels would be a great benefit. Maybe consider going tubeless?

[Lady Gravity]

Originally posted by m33p
42 tooth for sure. That's why im so fast.

hmmm
i'm switching to a 42..will that make me fast like you? damn i sure hope so :D

[GrimJack]

Tubeless for sure. New UST rims if you can afford it, Stan's notubes otherwise.

Get rid of that front chainring, mount a big one. Especially if you are topping out at speed!

New fork... there's plenty to choose from. Dorado, BoXXer, Super T, I hate to say it but anything is better than the JrT. 'Course, this will save wear and tear on your body more than it'll shave time.

Silly question: You do run clipless, right?

[Cheese]

2002 boxxer, the 03 internals suck on all boxxers.
LIVID - lighter, easier to maintain and something a lil differnet.
Keep the rear hub, hubs dont do anything other than make the BZZZZZZZZZZZ'ing sound that sounds oh so cool but not o so cool enough to spend 400 dollars to get it.
I'd get the XT breaks, they can probabbly make the .02 seconds difference because they dont stick as well when you tap them.

[WBC]

I wouldnt worry about brakes other than just keeping them in top shape fluid and padwise.

I'd rock a 888, and Im going to for the next season (Ive got racing in my planbook as well). The Dorado is great if you're small, though. stay away from all 03 Boxxers. Theyre full of problems all around.

Wheels...try scoring a set of the new DeeMaxes. They're tubeless, low spoke count, super high strength wheels. The new ones are actually REALLY nice. Only like 600 USD retail, too. With those, the new 2.5 WildGripper tires are badass for wet/NW riding, and the comp 16s are great in the dry. 2.8s are too big for anything I say. It's important to have a set of tires for each major condition change. Never go over a 2.5.

Other than that, just make sure everything feels right. For me, I need a stiff cockpit for it to feel good and thus me be quick.

Ultegra 11-25 drivetrains are good, too :) .

[bullit_kid]

Originally posted by GrimJack
Tubeless for sure. New UST rims if you can afford it, Stan's notubes otherwise.
New fork... there's plenty to choose from. Dorado, BoXXer, Super T, I hate to say it but anything is better than the JrT. 'Course, this will save wear and tear on your body more than it'll shave time.
Silly question: You do run clipless, right?


Yes i run "time z's"

love em

Right now i have another set of rims i wanna built up

i have a set of 26" 32 hole sun singlewides ..
set of 2.3 highrollers/mobsters

just need some hubs to make a back up set od race wheels

so stay away from BoXXer hmmm .. ok
the fork yea, it more to keep the fronmt end from bouncing around (may sound stupid) but at speed the jrt locks (normal :lol:) and it becomes ridgid, or low in travel .. jsut wears on me, because its harder to pedal in this situation ..

WBC
Wheels...try scoring a set of the new DeeMaxes. They're tubeless, low spoke count, super high strength wheels. The new ones are actually REALLY nice. Only like 600 USD retail, too. With those, the new 2.5 WildGripper tires are badass for wet/NW riding, and the comp 16s are great in the dry. 2.8s are too big for anything I say. It's important to have a set of tires for each major condition change. Never go over a 2.5.

all the BC cup courses are very dry, the only one that is ever wet is hammerfest and its a really tacky course ...

[Mountain Dewd]

get some clipless shoes, real nice tires, sticky rubber absolutly rules for racing. buy some cheaper set(duro/kujo) for all around riding so you dont wear out your racing tires.

defenitly get a 888 or the 04 dorado.

spv is key, just eats up everything and you always have more control with it, you can really push hard. will make your fox in the back feel like a joke.

then just get a evil and a 42 tooth chain ring, and some saddle , sdg grandprix if u can choose.

[barry]

think about this.. if you lost by a fraction of a second at alot of races, and you were maxing out, then a 42 or 44t should do the trick no? they should give you those extra few seconds if you were just spinning before...

[m33p]

btw guys, all year boxxers sucked the cock.

[v 10 rider]

Originally posted by m33p
btw guys, all year boxxers sucked the cock.

not once you set them right and look after them

[switch]

Originally posted by m33p
btw guys, all year boxxers sucked the cock.

Does that mean they're good, or not good? :S :P

[m33p]

Originally posted by v 10 rider
not once you set them right and look after them
About the same maintenance as a dorado...

[J dot]

Originally posted by switch
Ross, for the love of the board, please change your avatar.

THE CRAAAN STAYS !

[C.C.]

Probably the most important thing is to have the right gearing. If you're spinning out, then you're not achieving your max speed. That's a cheap upgrade.

A good fork is super important, especially for the gnarly stuff. I've only ridden an older boxxer (2001) and it felt great. I've heard really good things about the Shiver DC as a race fork.....smooth and plush.

If you've still got money after the chainring and fork, a good place to save weight on a dh bike is in the wheels. A lighter tire combo is probably the most cost effective. Different tires will different tracks better. For dryer conditions, a Maxxis Highroller 2.5 front and 2.3-2.4 in the back would be a fast rolling combo. As for rims, singletracks, even rhino lites xl make a light and decent rim spec for a light/smooth rider.

A pimp rear hub is a nice feature, but won't help in a race without a lot of rachet style pedalling (slow start grinds/shore style stunts). IMO, it gives you a little 'go factor' as you're zinging away top speed.