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i have hayes mechanic and now they don't braek, the wheel never block, what's the problem ?? my pads are 2 weeks old so i think the problem come from the rotor, does a rotor can be scrap ( too used so it's like ice so the pads can brake/block on it):???:
bullit_kid
08-27-2003, 06:17 PM
Originally posted by oryx
i have the worst grammer ever, dont bother reading my thread
i do what im told, sorry i cant help you
GrimJack
08-27-2003, 06:18 PM
Many things to check.
Try pulling on the lever arm by hand, see if that gives you brakes. If so, cables / housings / levers are the problem.
Take the pads out and check them anyhow. Can't hurt.
I doubt it is the rotor. If it feels greasy or oily, then that is it, otherwise, it's likely somewhere else in the system.
Revscene
08-27-2003, 06:25 PM
i think someone needs to freshen up on their english and typing skills
BAC5.2
08-27-2003, 06:30 PM
Originally posted by oryx
i have hayes mechanic and now they don't break
Why are you complaining about them not breaking? I thought that was the purpose of bike parts, not breaking.
switch
08-27-2003, 06:37 PM
Originally posted by bullit_kid
i do what im told, sorry i cant help you
Ross, don't be an idiot. Oryx is from Quebec, and English is probably his 2nd language.
As for the thread, try some adjustments. First, you might want to check the caliper alignment. Adjust position of the caliper so that the rotor is as close as possible to the outside pad as possible without it rubbing. Lock the caliper mount bolts down, then adjust the inside pad so that it as close as possible to the rotor without rubbing. Second, make sure the levers don't pull all the way down to the handlebars. If they do, then you need to adjust the cable tension so that you apply more power. Screw the barrel adjust all the way in. Loosen the cable clamp on the caliper. Pull the cable tight, give the caliper a little bit of a twist, then tighten down the cable clamp. Try that out, and use the barrel adjust to add more tension if necessary.
well sorry i edit my post, i'm not an english, i usualy talk french so that's why my english is not very well :D
your right switch, i do all the things you said, but it didn't brake more, it's like if i had v-brake and i put water on the side of the rim where the pads brake :mad:
switch
08-27-2003, 06:42 PM
Originally posted by oryx
well sorry i edit my post, i'm not an english, i usualy talk french so that's why my english is not very well :D
I understood it perfectly. Ignore the ignorant comments. Tout est bon, mon ami Canadienne.
bullit_kid
08-27-2003, 06:43 PM
ok i forgive you then.
Also make that your cable hasnt slipped in the caliper. Make sure the bolt is nice and tight. Look for any kinks in the housing.
eddiebrannan
08-27-2003, 06:45 PM
ils sont merde, les hayes mech, c'est que tout le monde dit. mais le mien travail parfait, alors…
peut-etre parce-que ils sont nouveau ils ne travaient pas. est-ce que ils ont deja travaille ou pas? s'ils n'ont pas jamais travaillez, peut etre ils ne sont pas broken in?
moi je sui anglais, et c'est-ci ma deuxieme langue - excusez-moi
switch
08-27-2003, 06:45 PM
Originally posted by oryx
your right switch, i do all the things you said, but it didn't brake more, it's like if i had v-brake and i put water on the side of the rim where the pads brake :mad:
Perphaps you have some grime or grease on the rotors/pads. Try taking the pads out and cleaning them with alcohol. Soak a clean rag well and use it to soak and wipe the pads. Then wipe down the rotors well with alcohol too.
eddiebrannan
08-27-2003, 06:46 PM
c'est pas le rotor, ca c'est certain. c'est les pads ou les cables ou quelquechose
well i clean the rotor and pads 3 times with alcohol , maybe the best thing to do is an hydro like in the front :rolleyes:
bullit_kid
08-27-2003, 06:50 PM
Are your fork seals leaking ? They might be leaking oil onto the pads ?
eddiebrannan
08-27-2003, 06:52 PM
good call. oryx is it the front that's fucked? hard to decipher what you mean "like in the front" also do you have an inverted fork, because they're more prone to leaking oil on the brake
FlipSide
08-27-2003, 06:53 PM
Les Hayes mécaniques ne sont pas aussi puissant que les Avids ou les Hayes hydroliques...c'est donc normal que ça freine moins. Si tu as un problème de contamination (genre huile sur tes pads/rotors), tes pads sont pas mal finies et ça va t'en prendre des nouvelles. Essaye les EBC Rouges. Elles ne durent pas longtemps, mais elles freinent en tabarnak! Si tu changes de pads assure-toi de bien frotter tes disques avec de l'alcool friction avant d'utliser les nouvelles pads.
Pour améliorer les performances, des nouvelles gaines et cables de frein font aussi parfois des merveilles.
:)
my brake is in the back so it's not oil fork, ma laver mon rotor et mettre mes pads d'en avant en arriere donc en faisant sa ma voir si sa marche ou pas, si c'est pareil et bien se n'est pas les pads mais bien le rotor.
Faithless
08-27-2003, 06:55 PM
someone translate for me please =p
translate what the part of flipside or me ?
bokinator
08-27-2003, 07:17 PM
I remember I cleaned my pads with some mineral spirit and the pads were very slippery. I guess you'll have to wear it in?
I also had to push the lever arm about half way, and then tighten the cable so that the lever doesn't pull all the way to the bars.
FlipSide
08-27-2003, 07:23 PM
Originally posted by FlipSide
Les Hayes mécaniques ne sont pas aussi puissant que les Avids ou les Hayes hydroliques...c'est donc normal que ça freine moins. Si tu as un problème de contamination (genre huile sur tes pads/rotors), tes pads sont pas mal finies et ça va t'en prendre des nouvelles. Essaye les EBC Rouges. Elles ne durent pas longtemps, mais elles freinent en tabarnak! Si tu changes de pads assure-toi de bien frotter tes disques avec de l'alcool friction avant d'utliser les nouvelles pads.
Pour améliorer les performances, des nouvelles gaines et cables de frein font aussi parfois des merveilles.
:)
Translation:
Hayes mechanicals are not as powerful as the Avids or the Hayes Hydros...it is thus normal that they don't brake as much. If your system is contaminated (oil on pds/rotors), your pads are more or less dead and you'll have to buy new ones. Try the EBC Reds. They don't last long but they brake very well. If you change your pads, make sur to carefully clean your rotors with rubbing alcohol before using the new pads.
:)
FlipSide
08-27-2003, 07:26 PM
Oryx,
Tes pads ne sont probablement pas "rodée" encore. Laisse leur encore un peu de temps et tu devrais avoir plus de puissance.
Translation: Your pads are probably not broken in yet...just give them time before you change your pads.
or just loosen all the adjusting knobs at the caliper and lever by turning them clockwise all the way, then loosen the bolt at the caliper where it holds on to the cable, pull it to an appropriate length, and see if if brakes. If it is not grabbing as strong, loosen that same bolt again and pull more cable so it is "tighter" then see what happens,
then you can do minor tightening adjustments by using those knobs on the levers or calipers later.
good luck with that.
ps: there is another harder way to adjust the caliper by opening it but it could lead to stretching of yor inner spring and cause a big boo boo.
switch
08-28-2003, 12:48 AM
Originally posted by M13
ps: there is another harder way to adjust the caliper by opening it but it could lead to stretching of yor inner spring and cause a big boo boo.
It's OK if you understand what you're going to do, and don't over do it.
Adding additional tension over the stock setup makes for snappier retraction of the pads from the rotor, as well as assists with cable tension.
I found that a half turn on the tension spring works best. Just get a strong pair of needle nose pliers, grabe the tension spring clip tightly, pull out, and twist 1/2 turn. If I recall correctly, it's a counter-clockwise twist.
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